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Old 03-16-2005, 05:53 AM
mjz mjz is offline
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: nowhereland
Posts: 5,266


Fretting: (same for bound or unbound):* Includes fretboard preparation (re-planing if necessary to fix relief).* I use hide glue on the frets to seal air gaps and give a nicer sound, however, I'm not gluing the frets in- they'll stay in by themselves.* If the fingerboard ends are chewed up, as many older D-18s are, I use superglue to hold the fret ends down.* I also have Martin "compression" frets available for really bad fret slots.* If necessary, I'll use superglue and dust to rebuild the entire slot.* I don't "dress" frets, but prefer to remove worn frets and install new to keep all the frets at full height.* I typically only re-fret out to the 15th fret, to save time and effort, and because those frets are rarely worn, but if you want all the frets replaced, we'll do that, too.* $150 for complete refret. $10/fret for partial, $50 minimum.
Of course while it's there a set-up would be nice
General setup, Saddles/nuts: Includes bone saddle/nut,* truss rod adjustment, bridge fitting (on mandos), bridge slotting and installation of bone or FWI pins (parts are extra), and anything else that will make your guitar or mandolin play better.* Regarding saddle/nut material, I usually work with bone as I feel that it gives the best sound/dollar, but I also have fossil walrus ivory (FWI).* Compared to FWI, Bone generally gives a slightly rougher, bassier tone that sounds "older". * FWI is extremely clean, bright, and more "modern" sounding.* Setup prices:* bone-* $80, FWI- $150. Fret work, if needed, is extra.
Bryan is a pretty established Luthier in New Mexico. He just did the above on a Martin for me. Really good work.

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