Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudy4
No problem. We sometimes use different methodology to arrive at the same point, often taking in the consideration of the economics of our respective shops. I've been doing instrument stuff for over thirty years and I just happen to be really "frugal".  (Some have another name for it...)
Re-sawing effectively on a small saw requires that you accommodate for your blade lead angle. (There's tons of info on the web about lead angle and how to establish it).
There are two methods to compensate for blade lead angle; re-setting the fixed angle of the fence or using a point contact fence (as shown in my photo) that permits adjusting the cut on the fly. The fence on my band saw has this feature built in so I opt to use it. Often you see folks re-sawing with only the point contact used and the standard fence is removed during its use.
The photo doesn't show the relationship very well, but the point is aligned with the front of the blade; the angle here is a bit more extreme than usual because I'm using a blade with a bit of wear. In most examples of using the point contact (with a sharper blade) the angle ends up only being a degree or two. I'm spitting a thick billet here to use as a bookmatched top that's going on a carved top bass. With a sharp blade it's easy to cut 1/8" or 3/16" thick slices from the billet. |
If you are talking about blade drift, you have to account for it on the big saws too, it's not as bad but it's there and bad enough to make a difference if not accounted for. In fact I do it before every resaw session. The fence on my resaw swivels so it's just a matter of loosening a hinge bolt to set the angel.
Fun stuff.