2. Backs are usually domed or curved as it adds a bit of strength.
3. glue joints should be wood to wood if that is a air gap then it is not glued but may be okay if you are adding some sort of lining and not just relying on the top to rib joint. Wood glue does not expand unless it is polyurethane glue.
4. Wood glues best if the surfaces are planed or scraped smooth then joined soon after scraping but you can get away with sanded joins.
5. The best glue spreader for wood glue comes attached to your hand at birth with an individual print so nobody else in the workshop can steal them.
Also those brace ends on the top that do not reach the sides are best tapered down to nothing on the ends (as Charles pointed out) to defend against them coming off due to a blow in the future. You could still do that before you close the box.
One other bit of advice Twilo is to learn from any errors you make on this one then buy another kit and go again making improvements on the second one. Itain't rocket science but practice helps.
EDIT...didn't intend to double up on Ned, his post was not there when I started my reply
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Divots in my fingers
Music in my head
I wonder what would be
If I chose car racing instead.
Jim Schofield
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