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Just curious what you re-profile the necks to?
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On two of the H165s (
both had the large headstock) I did four things (see the right hand guitar in the first picture posted on this thread):
1. Re-profiled the neck and heel to Martin "Clapton" proportions
2. Re-shaped the headsock to Martin proportions (paying close attention to the existing tuner hole locations)
3. Added headstock veneers (one rosewood, one Carpathian elm burl - see same picture)
4. Added side markers (dots on one, slashes on the other)
I also did these above four operations on a couple of H162s. I also added custom inlays (headstock and fretboard) to a few of them.
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Also....do you eliminate the rear-most brace only if you are converting the top bracing to X? thought the rear-most back brace was overkill.
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I have eliminated the rearmost back brace on every H165 and every H162 I've owned or worked on. On most of them, I also re-profiled the remaining rough-cut braces. NOTE: Only the braces you can easily see through the sound hole are factory shaped or sanded.... the rest are left raw cut (rectangular profile). The results of brace removal and profiling are a lighter weight guitar and a more resonant overall structure (due to more flexible bracing).
I have logged hundreds of playing hours on two of these guitars, and the other ones I've done have also remained strucurally sound, with stable action and relief. All of the X-braced guitars are Sitka braced, forward shifted and scalloped. All the bridges are voiced; mostly with very thin wings. A couple have large bridge footprints, hiding previously messy old footprints. I install phosphor 11s or 12s on them, depending on what I'm doing with them. 11s for fingerstyle, 12s for flatpicking or anything with a stronger attack.
I think I'm going to take one of my 162s and brace it and set it up for .010s. I plan to use some of the techniques described here for this project:
https://umgf.com/adirondack-vs-sitka...--t135904.html
