Quote:
Originally Posted by kwakatak
Next time I need to trim away at the back rim before gluing on the kerfing.
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that's a good idea. since i don't pre-cut my sides prior to bending, i rough off the material with a small plane to within a 16th or so of final size. then i hit it with the radius dish to set the arch. then goes on the kerfing glued about a 64th or so above the rim. then glue up of the kerfing (which i have to spritz and bend on a bending iron because the guitar is a 3/4 with tight radii) then i hit it again with the radius dish to blend the kerfing and rim together in one smooth arch. i have a fixture i built that locates the assembled rim to the centerpoint of the radius (for me, right in the center of the bridge) and is adjustable for inclination as well. this insures that the arch is centered and even on all points of the rim, and i get the desired neck and tail block thickness.
coming from an aerospace tooling background one trick i like to use is support blocks made from rubber. they conform to just about anything for tricky glue up problems such as your neck block issue. on our latest i glued the neck block freeform to the rim using thick rubber sheet to support the rim from the outside -squared it up, and clamped directly to the work table. our neck block has a 16" radius on it so i needed to get the rim to conform to that curve. rubber did the job without wooden shims.
you're making progress -keep it up!
