Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam VanLaningham
Ok I like your ingenuity and willingness to try new ideas! Carry on 
I think the oak could work as a bridge plate. But if it seems like it's prone to splitting, I'd worry. A slab or rift sawn section would be best I think.
Can you make a 3 or more piece laminate neck using some straight grained oak as a center stringer for instance?
The problem with lightening up the upper bout bracing is that this is precisely where guitars absorb a lot of the stress/strain.
With small guitars, I THINK (but do not know experimentally) you could get away with less top braces, such as the finger braces and tone bars. Early Martin's only had one finger brace on each side and there are boutique builders who still follow that on 0 size bodies. The Taylor gs mini does not have tone bars but that can lead to top seam separation (happened on mine).
If you are thinking of making the guitar with a scale length shorter than tradition, then you will have even less tension on the top and thus can get away with less structural components.
That's what I'm thinking anyhoo! Good luck.
Sam |
Thanks sam, I was planning to use the oak for the actual bridge because it's the best thing I have to hand but I'm going to go to a local timber supplier and check if they have anything better. I think the bracing I have in the upper bout is fairly substantial for the guitar size especially compared to a more traditional sized instrument, the distances between major structural supports are so much smaller.
In terms of seam separation, how about an Edwinson style brace running from the centre of the x to the tail block over the bridge plate to protect the seam and stop the top from going in to an 's' belly?
Kieran