Quote:
Originally Posted by redir
I always use a tapered shim to avoid that when doing a neck reset. But the neck angle looks proper on that guitar. You want to have enough saddle height so that you can lower it at some point in the future or even for player preference.
That fall away is nothing to worry about unless you are an acoustic guitar shredder and like to play past the 14th fret a lot. But being a non-cutout my guess is those frets don't get a lot of play.
The glue around the neck block has nothign to do with the neck reset. Unless the damage was a rotated block too. IT's not abnormal to see some squeeze out there especially if they close the sound box with the top last.
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Thank you. In particular I appreciate the clarification around the falloff. I will never play those frets, so the playability isn't an issue.
The action is a bit on the low side for the amount of saddle showing, but I'm not sure it's really an issue, per se, unless someone wanted to set the action at 6/64 or higher, in which case you could be getting into the 'saddle too high' scenario. I'd probably like to take the action up by maybe 1/64, which I think will be a little borderline, but OK.