[vintageparlors]

I choose a pau ferro fretboard for most parlor rebuilds because I like the tightness of the grain and it takes a stain finish well. I prefer a darker look to a rosewood fretboard so before the fretting begins I apply 2 alternating applications of Minwax Ebony semi-transparent stain and Zinsser spray shellac. The results of the pre-finish of the fretboard is shown in the first photo. If you checkout my last post you'll see the "before and after" difference in the look of the fretboard.

My approach to fretting is some what analog as compared to most. I purchase medium/medium fret wire by the pound from StewMac and then radius the fret wire to match the fretboard radius. I use a radius'd caul that's made to fit into a press to hammer the frets by hand into place and then cut the long peice of fretwire off each fret as I go. My fretting toolkit consists of radius'd caul, hammer, cutting pliers and flush cut nippers. Photo 1.

Seating the fretboard on a firm, flat surface I start at the highest fret and work backwards to the first fret. If I happen to cut the fretwire too short then I can use it on a shorter length fret. It takes two lengths of fretwire to complete a parlor size fretboard. I position one whole fretwire over the last fret slot and give it a light tap with the hammer on the edge to get the fretwire seated. I leave some excess hanging over the edge to account for any misshaping during the install process. I place the caul over the last fret and hammer lightly but firmly in the center, left and right of the caul until the fret is completely seated. Once seated I use the cutting pliers to cut the fretwire off at the fretboard, but leaving an overhang, and repeat the process until complete. Photo 2 and 3.

Once all the frets are seated in the fretboard, I use the flush cut nippers to trim the overhang "ends" off. I don't want to get too close to the fretboard itself for fear that I'll pinch some wood off in the process. Photo 4.

Although cut fairly flush with the fretboard edge, I want to remove the sharp ends of the frets so they don't get caught on something and rip themselves out. I use an old, worn 240 grit sanding belt on the 4" belt sander to essentially burnish the very ends of the frets just enough to reduce the risk of bad things happening. The sanding belt is so worn that it doesn't take any wood off the fretboard itself as long as my hands are light and steady during the burnishing process. Photo 5.

After the fretting process is complete I have a nice clean fretboard edge with no fretwire overhang and a fretted fretboard ready to mate with the neck(under tape only) to begin the alignment process. Photo 6.

Quick tip: The radius of the fretwire must match the radius of the fretboard. You'll have all manner of trouble if they don't match.