Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirk Hofman
I'm really enjoying it. I'd be curious to hear what a non-surfer thinks of it (do you surf?), as there is a good bit of surfing-specific description in the book. Certainly there is a lot more there, but it's grounded around that life an activity.
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I'm sort of strange as I have never surfed and don't like my legs dangling in the big fish bowl without seeing what is below. This is why I go hiking,lol, but am so enamored with the ocean and love watching people surf. It just draws me in,