Without measurements, those photos tell us very little other than that there is very little break-angle at the bridge. To be able to take measurements, all you need is a set of feeler-gauges (available via any automotive parts/tools store), a steel rule with divisions that go right to the end of the rule, and a decent 24” straight-edge.
1) To check neck-relief - Tune the guitar to EADGBE at concert pitch (A = 440hz), put a capo on the neck at the first fret, hold down the low ‘E’ string at the 14th fret, and use the feeler gauges to check the gap between the underneath of the string and the top of the 7th fret. The generally accepted range is 0.004“ - 0.010”. My guitars are all set at ~0.006”.
2) To check 12th fret action, remove the capo and measure the gap between the top of the fret and the underneath of the low ‘E’ and high ‘e’ strings. The generally-accepted ‘good’ numbers are ~3/32” low ‘E’ and ~5/64” high ‘e’, but those are variable according to the player’s taste and style of play.
3) Nut slots should be the same level as, or a tiny hair higher than, the height of the first fret. To check nut-slot height, hold down each string in turn between the 2nd and 3rd frets, and eyeball the gap between the top of the first fret and the bottom of the string - the gap should be barely visible but, if you lightly tap the string over the fret, you should hear a ‘click’ indicating that there is actually a
tiny gap (one or two thou only). If there’s no visible gap and no ‘click’, the nut-slot is probably too deep.
4) Neck-angle - Here’s a good article from Frank Ford, describing better than I can the method for checking neck-angle...
http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Musi...neckangle.html
Without a decent set of measurements, it’s really not possible for anyone to make a judgment on the condition of the guitar without having the instrument in their hands.
And, like others here, I seriously doubt the standard of a ‘qualified tech’ who recommends compression fretting to correct neck-relief in a guitar that has an adjustable truss-rod, or as an alternative to a neck reset on any guitar.
The usual disclaimers apply......IMHO, YMMV etc.