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Old 03-02-2022, 08:00 PM
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ArchtopLover ArchtopLover is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Blanchardville, Wisconsin
Posts: 122
Default First thing for a DYI truss rod adjustment.

No, do not tighten, not yet. I would suggest that you first, measure and record the amount of up-bow at the 7th fret, then loosen the truss rod fully slack, allowing the neck to settle and relax for a short while. What you are looking for at this point is the amount of neck relief at the 7th fret with no truss rod correction.

Once the neck has settled and relaxed, you are then going to want to measure and record the amount of up-bow again. If the up-bow has gotten worse, and you gain relief, then, with some luck, you may be able to adjust this excess up-bow out by tightening the truss beyond the original setting. It would be beneficial here, to apply the augmented truss rod adjustment method, using a set of riser blocks, a straight bar and clamp to help press the neck, while tightening the truss rod. If, on the other hand, the neck relief improved, you can likely dial-in a straight neck without much difficulty.

Unfortunately, a hump in the neck at the body joint is tough to deal with. If the hump is not too dramatic, sometimes the "buzzing" frets can be dressed down so as to mitigate finger board leveling and a partial fret job. However, and usually, by the time you have removed enough material to eliminate the buzz, you have also eliminated so much of the fret crown that the string can not be played at that fret

Good luck and let us know how this issue turns out
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1918 Gibson L-1
1928 Gibson L-4 (Blond w/Ebony Fret-board)
1930's Kalamazoo KG-32
1930's Gretsch F-50
1934 Gibson L-7
1934 Gibson L-50 (KG-11/14 Body Shape)
1935 Gibson L-50 (Flat-back)
1935 Gibson L-30 (Flat-back)
1942 Gibson L-50 (WWII Banner Head)
1948 Gibson L-50
1949 Epiphone Blackstone


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