Quote:
Originally Posted by BigToeify
I have a 1979 Yamaha. The action is not that great anymore. Not terrible but id like it to be better. I've read about neck reset conversion to bolt on for these 70's Yamaha's. My luthier believes that I can get back very nice action with a re-fret without doing a neck re-set. He mentioned when removing the frets he will loosen the truss rod, re-fret and re-engage the truss rod again, recut a new nut and saddle as well. Is this the typical process? I'm no repair expert. I do trust him with doing the re-fret but I was curious if this is the standard way of doing a re-fret.
Also can a re-fret improve the action to a point where a neck reset is probably not necessary? I know its hard to answer without seeing the guitar. Just curious to anyone who does repairs.
I'll also say that I know this guitar financially is not worth any of these repairs but it's not about money.
Thanks!
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If the guitar is close to a reset, and has a thick enough fingerboard, when in the process of refretting, the fingerboard can be planed slightly to add taper (add neck angle) and extra tall frets can be used, which can also be "tapered" (ie: lower height frets near the nut moving to full height near the fingerboard extension). This can create more neck angle and can often avoid (delay by decades) the dreaded neck reset.
Done poorly, and you'll have popped a few hundred bucks into an ineffective repair. Done well, and you can have a guitar that will last the rest of your life without needing a neck reset.