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Old 03-30-2015, 06:40 AM
Ned Milburn Ned Milburn is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Dartmouth, NS
Posts: 3,127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twilo123 View Post
Ned, the rosewood veneer arrived. i will do as you state here for gluing veneer however you never replied about how to get the pegs hole on the veneer. do i trace out the holes ahead of time and drill them out? do i glue the veneer on first and then drill the holes out?

a buddy of mine suggested putting the veneer between 2 blocks with 1 block having the holes pre drilled out. that way the veneer will not split or anything when drilling out. he does not build guitars or anything but said that's what he would try if he were doing it. is this a good method maybe?
Glue first. Don't use excessive glue. Just enough to get a fair amount of squeeze out to confirm 100% adhesion.

After it is dry, drill out the veneer with a bit from the back of the headstock using the present holes as a guide. Hold the headstock firmly against a piece of scrap wood (I use pine or MDF for these operations) to avoid tearing the exit point. Or clamp the scrap wood to the headstock.

If the ferrules for the tuners are press-in, you'll have to be very careful about drilling precisely. Many modern tuners come with screw in ferrules, in which case you wouldn't need to be so precise with your drilling since a slight oversize is no trouble. Of course, you don't want to exaggerate the oversizing if indeed you do drill oversize.

You will also have to think about the fit of the nut. Usually, headstocks are angled backwards. Nut is USUALLY (but not always) installed with a flat bottom (ie: parallel to neck/fingerboard angle) and mounted as deep as the neck-wood. The headstock veneer is usually (but not always) used as a back edge for the channel in which the nut sits - veneer on headstock side, fingerboard on the other side, and neck wood on bottom.

So the headstock veneer needs to be cut vertically (90 degrees to fingerboard plane) and is often between 4 to 5.5mm in width.

I glue the veneer before cutting it, and I cut it in one pass by hand with a very simple jig that clamps onto the neck and has a 90 degree surface against which I place my saw to cut. I use a flat piece of scrap wood against the other side of the saw to ensure it stays steadily on the jig plane.

Just shout if you want me to post a photo.
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Ned Milburn
NSDCC Master Artisan
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
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