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Old 04-06-2013, 02:10 PM
YamaYairi YamaYairi is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Cleveland, OH
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tscoggan View Post
Wow, thanks for all the great responses! As promised, here are some photos of the crack:

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0Bzbm...it?usp=sharing

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0Bzbm...it?usp=sharing

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0Bzbm...it?usp=sharing



YamaYairi: I'm a bit confused by your recommendations above. If the crack can be closed by gently pressing down on the part that protrudes out from the body (presumably due to tension from the strings), would that constitute enough "force" to warrant using the stem technique instead of clamping & gluing?

All: Any additional advice based on the photos? As of now, I'm leaning toward continuing with my plan to clamp & glue (with Titebond) but am still torn on whether to cleat. BTW, if I do cleat, is there any reason why I would need to use a specific type of wood for this cedar top? Again, it's not an expensive guitar...I just want it to be stable & functional.

Thanks again,
Tom
Sorry, that was a typo. I meant, "Steam it shut."
From the photos it looks like the edges of the crack don't line up. I agree with the advice to repair the point of impact first, then the grain crack. I think you will need to clamp the grain crack on top and below, using cauls with wax paper, so the wood lines up. It's hard to describe this, but if you can push on the wood and get the edges to line up and the crack is tight, then you shouldn't need to humidify the guitar to close the crack, just glue and clamp. I would say that if you can't stick a piece of paper through the crack while holding the edges so they line up, you don't have to humidify. In fact, humidifying at that point may make it difficult to line the edges up.
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