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Old 08-20-2017, 07:40 PM
CabinetMan CabinetMan is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 113

Originally Posted by Neil K Walk View Post
The latter. The profile of the kerfing should reflect the radius. By gluing the kerfing proud of the sides, that means that potentially you have less material to sand away - and ideally as little of the sides themselves as possible.

Also, I don't know if this is but when I used my homemade contraption I found that less material comes off the waist and that I really had to sand away a LOT of material from the ends of the bouts and the opposite ends of the body; the waist ended up almost being "higher" in profile than the ends.

PS: I also found that it's best to start off with the block plane (in order to take off more material quickly) with that in mind before scribbling graphite on the surface (to identify the "high points") and switching to sanding.
Thanks Neil, By about how much should I let it set above the sides? I was thinking about 1/32 or so. Tell me if I'm wrong.

So I have made my kerfing. Made reverse kerfing out of poplar. Cut it to proper size then rounded it over on the router table. Heated it on the iron and got it bent to shape.( I had made extra, when I tried fitting it to the sides without heating I found it broke if I turned it in reverse fashion but not if turned " traditionally".
I have NOT glued it in yet just have it sitting in the sides so it will hold its form.

Had a good friend that had a block of spruce that he gave me and I got my top braces rough cut. I'm STILL debating on weather or not to radius that top or just leave it flat and follow along with the plans. ?????????????????????????????????
I first thought I'd get away without having to worry about the neck angle if I followed the plans but I'm beginning to see that's not turning out to be the case.
Again thanks for all the replies and the help.
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