Quote:
Originally Posted by Left of Sam
Hi Ned - Thanks for response. The bandsaw setup worked pretty well on some 3" maple. But the wider stock had blade drift bottom to top. I set up the bearing guides as recommended (I think). I got a timberwolf 1/2" 3tpi blade, which seems awesome! Im thinking that the biggest problem could be that the initial stock was only 0.22" thick?
But I still have to resaw the backs, which are 7.5" high....Whoa, that wont be easy so I need better resaw technique.
So, what if I thickness sand the 2nd, super thin, sides set to say around 0.03-0.04" and DOUBLE SIDE it with some, say 0.05" flatsawn mahogany I have hanging around, ala a McKnight?
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Laminating the sides should be fine. Great solution! Some top classical guitars fetching greater than 10k per instrument are made this way.
You will DEFINITELY want to test some scrap maple (get some from a lumber yard, even pretty maple is usually cheap) before sawing your real wood. Any deviations in a 3 or 4 inch cut will be multiplied greatly in an 8.5 to 9 inch cut.
The timberwolf blades are good. That is what I am using now and am completely satisfied. You will want to check a few things:
1) that you have enough tension on your blade. Remember, as you saw the blade warms and expands and becomes looser. So, you really need to slightly overtighten before you begin.
2) your top and bottom blade guides are on the same plane, and that they are tracking well on your tires. (Aside: My first bandsaw, a cast iron 2 piece unit with a riser installed, was terribly off alignment from the factory both with and without the riser. I had to mitigate by fitting a 2mm shim on one side of my riser, but I now do all my resawing on my more competent bandsaw - a General International 1-piece "European" style frame.) (EDIT: Sorry, just re-read that you state you've adjusted the guides.)
3) "Blade Drift" angle test. A fellow titled "The Wood Whisperer" has a great bandsaw setup guide to explain this.
Some people like the blade to always touch the inner blade guide bearings (upper and lower) with clearance only on the outer side of the blade, while others (including me) like the blade to run freely between the bearings with a touch of clearance on both sides. A bit of experimenting is the only way for you to find what matches your technique and your bandsaw.
Post with any more questions. I personally really enjoy resawing, and I know lots of other people on this forum have tonnes of resaw experience to help you out, too.