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-   -   Changing the bridge & saddle (https://www.acousticguitarforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=492001)

oldgitplayer 12-06-2017 05:30 PM

Changing the bridge & saddle
 
I have an Aria acoustic that I bought in 1968. It became pretty road worn in its day and I have recently removed the scratch plate (which was very ugly), bridge & saddle, nut and tuners to refinish the woodwork.

I have replaced the plastic nut with a bone nut and replaced the tuners. I bought a replacement rosewood bridge with compensated bone saddle, but am now uncertain whether or not I should proceed.

The original bridge and adjustable saddle are rosewood. They are the same as an early Gibson bridge. Obviously the early Japanese guitar makers knew what they were doing and the guitar has a particular tone of its own. I have however forgotten what it sounds like as it has been in in dry dock for about 4 years now and I currently play a D28.

It was a cheap guitar originally with plywood back and sides, but it has sentimental value, so that's why I'm working on it (and learning a few skills as I go).

Does anyone have experience with these old adjustable rosewood saddles? The question is: Should I keep it or replace it with the new rosewood bridge with bone saddle?

Any help would be appreciated.

1neeto 12-06-2017 05:36 PM

Changing the bridge & saddle
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by oldgitplayer (Post 5560142)
I have an Aria acoustic that I bought in 1968. It became pretty road worn in its day and I have recently removed the scratch plate (which was very ugly), bridge & saddle, nut and tuners to refinish the woodwork.



I have replaced the plastic nut with a bone nut and replaced the tuners. I bought a replacement rosewood bridge with compensated bone saddle, but am now uncertain whether or not I should proceed.



The original bridge and adjustable saddle are rosewood. They are the same as an early Gibson bridge. Obviously the early Japanese guitar makers knew what they were doing and the guitar has a particular tone of its own. I have however forgotten what it sounds like as it has been in in dry dock for about 4 years now and I currently play a D28.



It was a cheap guitar originally with plywood back and sides, but it has sentimental value, so that's why I'm working on it (and learning a few skills as I go).



Does anyone have experience with these old adjustable rosewood saddles? The question is: Should I keep it or replace it with the new rosewood bridge with bone saddle?



Any help would be appreciated.



Funny, right now I’m visiting a guitar tech that’s gonna work on the adjustable saddle on my 1970’s Japanese guitar. She sounds really good even with that horrible adjustable saddle so I can’t wait to hear the difference! He said he can fit a big bone saddle and fill up and polish the existing bridge. He quoted me $100 for the work and setup which I think it’s very reasonable. That puts the grand total of this guitar at $240 which that makes it a keeper since I doubt I’ll be able to sell her for anywhere near that much.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...07bb8cfc9b.jpg

Athens 12-06-2017 05:39 PM

Adj bridge
 
I've had a couple of guitars with adjustable bridges, including a 68 Aria 12 string that I still have.

The ones that I've replaced the Adj section on all saw an improvement in tone and sustain.

Definitely worth doing.

oldgitplayer 12-06-2017 06:25 PM

Thanks for the feedback - I was travelling in the right direction but needed a nudge or two. New bridge and saddle it shall be.

charles Tauber 12-06-2017 06:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldgitplayer (Post 5560203)
Thanks for the feedback - I was travelling in the right direction but needed a nudge or two. New bridge and saddle it shall be.


If the existing bridge is not coming off, I'd leave it. Instead, have the adjustable saddle slot filled, a new slot routed and put a regular bone saddle in it.

Alternatively, as 1neeto suggested, just have an over-thickness saddle made to fill the adjustable saddle slot. On all guitars that I make, I use a wide saddle, typically 3/16" thick and compensate for each string. Do that, and it'll play better in tune than it ever did before.

Athens 12-06-2017 08:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by charles Tauber (Post 5560214)
.....Alternatively, as 1neeto suggested, just have an over-thickness saddle made to fill the adjustable saddle slot.......

Yes, this is what I did. Have a slotted hardwood piece made for the saddle to fit into that fills the slot in the bridge.

oldgitplayer 12-06-2017 10:58 PM

So I already took off the bridge some time back and having now re-examined the parts and listened to wise counsel, I think I'll use the new bridge and saddle rather than mess with the old.

Thanks for the help.

charles Tauber 12-06-2017 11:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldgitplayer (Post 5560428)
So I already took off the bridge some time back and having now re-examined the parts and listened to wise counsel, I think I'll use the new bridge and saddle rather than mess with the old.

Thanks for the help.

Sorry, sloppy reading. I'd missed that you had already removed the bridge. Might as well use the new one then.

The usual caveats apply: the bridge pin hole spacing needs to match the old one, and the position of the saddle slot relative to the footprint of the bridge MUST put the saddle in the correct location for accurate intonation.

oldgitplayer 12-07-2017 12:46 AM

Yes - I've checked all the hole alignments and saddle location with regard to intonation and all the ducks seem to be lining up.
I just need to buy a couple of long clamps and I will be ready to glue.

charles Tauber 12-07-2017 01:31 AM

For the last several decades I’ve used two 3/16” x 3” bolts with washers and wing nuts to clamp bridges. I don’t use clamps. Just another option.

oldgitplayer 12-07-2017 02:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by charles Tauber (Post 5560473)
For the last several decades I’ve used two 3/16” x 3” bolts with washers and wing nuts to clamp bridges. I don’t use clamps. Just another option.

Brilliant!!! - I see how easy that will be using the holes in the bridge and body.

1neeto 12-07-2017 02:35 AM

Make sure the repairs are worth it. After seeing the tech today he noticed a few things that escaped me when I first checked the guitar. The bridge is lifting a bit from the top, and the work to make the saddle fit will be a bit more extensive than he expected. So he recommends to completely remove the bridge and re-glue it, but he said that removing the bridge could reveal other surprises. He estimated $125 at the very least depending on what he runs into, so i decided to not run the risk of a costly repair when the guitar is playable and sounds good already. I can always sell it for what I paid for and get something better.

oldgitplayer 12-07-2017 03:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1neeto (Post 5560482)
Make sure the repairs are worth it. After seeing the tech today he noticed a few things that escaped me when I first checked the guitar. The bridge is lifting a bit from the top, and the work to make the saddle fit will be a bit more extensive than he expected. So he recommends to completely remove the bridge and re-glue it, but he said that removing the bridge could reveal other surprises. He estimated $125 at the very least depending on what he runs into, so i decided to not run the risk of a costly repair when the guitar is playable and sounds good already. I can always sell it for what I paid for and get something better.

I'm 70 years of age and this guitar has been with me for 50 years now. It has seen gigs, concerts, parties, coffee bars, recording studios, and seranaded some impudent beauties in its time. So it deserves a new lease on life...:)

1neeto 12-07-2017 03:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldgitplayer (Post 5560489)
I'm 70 years of age and this guitar has been with me for 50 years now. It has seen gigs, concerts, parties, coffee bars, recording studios, and seranaded some impudent beauties in its time. So it deserves a new lease on life...:)



Oh yeah then totally worth it. Can’t imagine the stories of that guitar could talk!

Truckjohn 12-07-2017 09:53 AM

On the question of the bridge.. It's really up to you at this point. Remember that the weight of the adjustable parts does contribute to the tone of the instrument... This weight tends to act as a "low pass filter" of sorts which seems to "bump up the bass" at the expense of bright trebles. Replacing these parts with lighter weight wood tends to shift the balance towards treble - which you may or may not like..


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