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OddManOut 03-10-2016 11:11 PM

Bending: Binding, Purfling
Now the binding and purfling are bent and placed in the cooling jig. I decided to go with EIR binding for a more subtle look. The curly Claro Walnut binding will be saved for a future project. My name is Jim, and I'm an addict... ;)

OddManOut 03-14-2016 01:30 PM

Joining the Top
A bunch of pics have rolled in from the Tahoe Guitar Co.. Several posts follow.

Here Larry is joining the Carpathian Spruce top using a nail press. This top was a bit thin on the edges to be joined. Larry used brown tape and some business cards to apply extra downward pressure to minimize any vertical unevenness along the seam. Normally a very small bit of unevenness might exist, but is sanded off when the top is thicknessed. Larry is being extra careful due to the thin edges for the joint.

OddManOut 03-14-2016 01:39 PM

Joining the Back
Larry joins the two halves of the Sinker Mahogany back.

One noteworthy detail here is the center stripe. I wanted something subtle, and a pinstripe of EIR was the ticket. We considered ebony (ala a Collings 1-series), but the EIR will be a better match to the binding and heelcap. So a piece of EIR binding was crosscut, and placed "edge-on" (is that a term?) between the back plates.

OddManOut 03-14-2016 01:55 PM

Blocking the Sides
The sides are joined with the tail block and the neck block. At this point Larry builds an inside mold to support the joined sides until they are kerfed.

OddManOut 03-14-2016 01:57 PM

Blocking the Sides 2
The blocking continues.

OddManOut 03-14-2016 02:04 PM

Blocking the Sides 3
Finally, the inner mold is completed.

We considered using this piece of cardboard for the top, but it didn't tap very well. Sounded like cardboard... :D

That's the proper place for the cardboard...

OddManOut 03-14-2016 08:36 PM

Profiling The Back and Top, Thicknessing
Having allowed the glue to cure, the joined back and top are now profiled to slightly larger than the outline of the guitar.

The top is thicknessed..a rather critical factor in the tone of the guitar. ;)

Thicknessing the top.

Steve Kinnaird 03-14-2016 09:41 PM

Thanks for the pics. It's always fascinating to see someone else's approach to building. He's making good time!


OddManOut 03-15-2016 09:19 PM


Originally Posted by Steve Kinnaird (Post 4864783)
Thanks for the pics. It's always fascinating to see someone else's approach to building. He's making good time!


You're quite welcome. Thanks for following this thread. It seems every luthier has their methods and madnesses.

Larry is on a bit of a mission. He is building one (EIR/Adi dread-bluegrass machine) in tandem with mine and he wants it done for a local show in June.

Here Larry inlays the Blackwood rosette. Keeping things simple on the design with simple BWB purfling on the wood rosette and an inner BWB purfling ring.

The Luthier's Squall has ripped through Larrys' shop...

OddManOut 03-16-2016 07:38 AM

Milling The Braces
Larry mills the braces for the top and back from Red Spruce brace stock.

All the brace stock.

The top brace stock with profile tracings atop the top pattern.

The back brace stock with profile tracings atop the back pattern.

The Grizzly band saw roars to life...let the fun begin!

Meet the braces...the right most pile is the transverse brace and the back braces. The left most pile is the X and the tone bars. The liitle guys are the fingers.

A spot of sanding to width.

Rough back braces.

Rough top braces. That bridge plate stock is locally-grown Black Locust. The thin piece at the top will be sound hole strips. The larger piece at the top will become two flat trapezoidal braces between the neck block and the transverse brace (replacing the traditional popsicle brace).

OddManOut 03-16-2016 07:46 AM

The mahogany kerfing is bent on the 00-12 mold, and glued up.

It's looking like this collection of woody goodies might become a guitar. :up:

"Nurse...remove those clamps!"

OddManOut 03-19-2016 08:10 AM

Side Profile 1
Larry is in his home studio putting the finishing touches on his CD. He'll be back in the shop soon. In the meantime, I have some pics of a more nuts-and-bolts process.

This is the first 00-12 Larry has built, so he needs a side profile template. Making one requires a bit of layout due to the radiused profile of the sides.

The goal here it to profile the unbent sides so that the guitar has the proper depth. The challenge is twofold: The profile curve has a 20' radius and this radiused curve is set up on the length of the body. i.e There are two scales on which this must be done.

For the purposes of this discussion, I will refer to the two scales as follows:

Side Length: the actual length of the side is 26";

Body Length: The body is (if I recall) 19.5" long.

To create a profile pattern, Larry must make depth measurements along the side length, translate to the body length to mark the depth measurements, then translate them back to the side length.

How about a few pics?

The radius curve template and tracing-based on body length.

Sample points at one inch intervals along the side length. The depth of the guitar will be measured at each of these points.

Translating the points to the body length scale.

The points are closer together in the bends of the sides, more spread out in the straighter sections.

The depths are then marked off from the points along the body length, starting at the radius curve. The depths are then translated back to the one inch increments on the (unbent) side length scale, along what will become the side profile template.

The depths are marked off. The points on this scale are unevenly-spaced points along the body length scale. This the only way Larry can use the 20' radius curve as one endpoint for each of the depth markings. Kinda tricky...

Now we're back on the side length scale, translating those depths to the evenly-spaced marks at one inch intervals. This piece of card stock will become the actual side template.

OddManOut 03-19-2016 08:18 AM

Side Profile 2
With the proper depths marked off, the profile curve is traced along the side profile template.

The template is then cut out along that curve.

The profile curve is traced onto the sides, and the sides cut to the proper profile.

TomB'sox 03-19-2016 12:21 PM

Well that last part was beyond me, except he made a perfect template with a lot of measurements and then cut the sides out!!!!! hahaha

I have a much more basic question please, what is the point of the cardboard insert into the sides, I have not see anyone do that before? I thought maybe to help maintain shape, but then I did not think the cardboard would be strong enough to really do that?

Then I remembered the videos from the last builds you guys did, and thought maybe the cardboard was after too much paint thinner fumes or something ;););)

OddManOut 03-19-2016 02:38 PM

Tricky, I know. The key thing is the depth measurements have to be taken along the actual edge length of the side, but marked off from the radius template set along the body length. It took me awhile to get it.

If by "insert" you mean the template or pattern, it simply allows Larry to trace the edge profile which will give the desired radius when the sides are bent. The pattern doesn't serve as a physical guide for the cut itself. The is Larry's good eye and steady hand. :up:

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