I have to agree with the others, highly doubt that the rosewood is stained. The finish (yes, even a satin finish) will darken bare, raw wood.

Good correction. I was sort of in general wood mode.

Actually, Martin used and (I think) still uses a dark walnut stain on many of their instruments.

You may be right, I'm certainly no Martin expert. Might you be thinking of their paste pore filler that they kind of "buff" into the back and sides? I think that is kind of a walnut colored stuff.

Talked to a martin Rep and he said they only use a dark colored pore filler that doesn't change the color of the wood and that a nitro finish will darken it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'd feed some shellac into the wood before laying down another finish if indeed it is bare wood.

Yes you did fudge up. I won't pile on regarding that. But you should ask yourself, do you think you're going to be able to improve the situation by spraying or brushing a lacquer onto the guitar? Both spraying and brushing are challenging techniques on their own (specialties, really), and blending a new finish in a spot with a pre-existing finish is even more challenging.

But if you want to have fun and get experience, just "give 'er, buddy" as people say around these parts.

I am guessing that the original rosewood was sealed with some sort of sealer product originally... Vinyl sealer or shellac.

To match the original finish - you will probably need to do some of that as well.

But I agree with the rest here. Finishing guitars is extremely challenging because the finishes have to be about perfect or they look horrible.

This is made more so because you dont want to wreck the existing finish... And unfortunately - you are at a very dangerous point. You are very quickly heading down the rat hole "throwing good money after bad" with this job.. Think - you started off to put a drop or 2 of superglue into a small closed crack and now you are about to refinish the whole back.....

And what started out as a $50 repair has now passed a $300 repair and is quickly going up from there.

Pick a point where you will stop and you cut your losses. I recommend THIS round. I think this will be important here. Because the more times you touch this repair - the bigger it keeps getting.

I ended up refinishing and I think it looks remarkable. Thanks everyone for their input!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d1e1f3b016.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...022a02f16d.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks like you did a fine job! Well done!

Looks great. A better job than I have seen on quite a few "professional" repairs on my guitars.

I appreciate that guys! This whole process was actually a lot of fun. Looking forward to my next screw up lol.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice job!


.

That looks great!

The filler that was used may or may not act as a stain.

But anyway, just so you know in the future, when cracks come together like that uneven you should just be able to reach inside the sound hole and pop them back together in place. If it comes back together nice and tight then you are lucky, if not then I use a plexiglass caul clamped from the outside with 'go bars' inside the body to align the crack before then applying pressure from the side, across and perpendicular to the crack, so that the two cracked halves come together perfectly.

Beautiful job

They do sometimes. I've seen rosewood sprayed with a tinted finish. I know cause I've sanded through it! Had to airbrush to repair.

If the finish on that taylor is impervious to acetone...you can use it to remove the super glue.