Bridge Re-Glue Problem - Advice Needed
 

I have a Recording King RP2-626 guitar that had a poorly glued bridge and was starting to lift. I took the bridge off but now I don't have a flat surface to re-glue.

1. It appears in building the guitar they initially scored the guitar top 1/16" smaller than the bridge on all sides.
2. They then chiseled from the center to the outside creating a shoulder around the edges of 1/32" - 3/64" deep and leaving an uneven center section.
3. The bridge was then glued on with just some globs of what looks like epoxy due to its thickness.

I am assuming they did this to make sure there was no glue squeeze out during the manufacturing process. Unfortunately I am left with an uneven surface to glue. Would cleaning everything up and using epoxy make sense?

To answer your question. If you want to ever get the bridge off again don't use epoxy. Scrap off the old glue and scrape the finish just to the edge of the bridge.

Make certain you remove the glue from the bottom of the bridge as well.

Once you have wood all the way to the edge of the bridge, glue it on with titebond I or II. Both are fine. After it dries. Ream the pin holes if you have glue squeeze out, restring and enjoy.

Will Kirk gave some excellent advise. Some bridges have the edge beveled so the guitars top only needs to be cleaned to the bridge bevel, not to the edge of the bridge.

I will typically cut a ledge around the bottom of the bridge to allow the bottom to contact the wood. A large part of the problem here is the super thick finish....

I've repaired quite a few Recording King guitar bridges and they were all exactly as you describe. They have some serious QC issues when it comes to gluing bridges down. The finishes on those guitars are incredibly thick and the bridge basically rests on the finish spanning over the top of the exposed wood foot print that is filled up with glue.

What you need to do is hold the bridge in place (or even bolt it in place) and score a line around it with a brand new exacto blade and the chisel off the finish for the whole bridge foot print. If you do it just right the bridge will 'snap in' place. Glue it back in place with Titebond.

I position the bridge with two 1/2" long brads through each end of the saddle slot. The brads I use are the size of a #56 drill bit. The brads are rubbed with soap or wax so the glue won't stick, allowing them to be pulled out after the glue sets.
If the bridge was positioned correctly before, the holes can be drilled for the brads before removing the bridge. That way, you are assured that the bridge is in exactly the same spot. I generally drill the holes just to the outside edge of the outer pin holes, where they will hit the bridgeplate, but miss the X-braces.
Set the bridge on with the brads (no glue), and cut through the finish all the way around with an XActo knife. Remove the bridge, and clean off the finish to the cut line with a chisel. I also use the chisel to remove any residual glue so that there is fresh wood. This is very important if you use a glue like Titebond, which does not stick to old glue. Smooth any unevenness of the surface with a small sanding block (or a small finger plane if you have one).

BAM!!! Excellent.