Yeah, that didn't last long...
 

Bought a used Bedell MB-17-6 (from their short-lived Chinese import line) about a year ago. Had an obvious bridge repair and slight upward bow but got it cheap and it played and sounded nice. Messy glue around the bridge plate, luthier checked out instrument and felt it was solid.

For the most part it was a pretty wall hanger, and usually kept in lower tension DADGAD.

Took it down to play recently and WHA?? The bridge is pulled up, the wood is splintered and there is a crack at the right.

https://i.postimg.cc/CzyYWZFg/1.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/mPjsz87L/2.jpg

Took a long time to get the bridge off, wanted to minimize any further splintering. But it is in pretty bad shape. It's a solid top and there are some paper thin areas of wood (mostly past the bridge plate & brace underneath).

https://i.postimg.cc/tYhyyXTV/3.jpg

The bridge plate in good shape but with a gap that would need to be glued down:

https://i.postimg.cc/jDtTSGw3/4.jpg

I'm not going to put much money & energy into this but any suggestions of what I can do on the cheap or a way to musically repurpose this?

Put the bridge in place with a couple of bridge pins, drill two holes through the bridge and into the top behind say pins 1/2 and 5/6, Mix some epoxy up, smear it under the bridge, bolt the bridge down with small bolts

Leave 24-48hrs for epoxy to dry, string it up keep playing

Steve

Yeah, this will do it? Should I prep the splintered area first? And shouldn't I do something about the bridge plate gap as well? (I'd have to buy clamps I think. )

Also wondering about the JLD Bridge Doctor. Only $22 and this would also keep the top bow in check.

Tanks.

Looks like the bridge may have let go because the plate was not solid. Glue it up first then do the bridge as described.

It does indeed look like the bridge plate is coming off too. None the less I'd do pretty much what Steve suggested and see how much longer you get out of it. Just don't use cheap 5-minute hardware store epoxy.

I’m curious why you guys aren’t suggesting that he clean up the old glue residue before re-gluing.

FYI, there is no old glue residue left. And the saddle has been sanded clean.

Nylon bolts and nuts are the lightest you can get.

I have replaced the bridge pins with the nearest size bolt and nut.

https://www.boltdepot.com/Machine_sc...Nylon_6_6.aspx

Stringing and restringing is a pain but it works.

Do what Mirwa says and make sure the epoxy you use is not the quickset, 5 minute type.

Also, I think Mirwa, when he recommended bolting down the bridge, meant that as a way to clamp it until the glue sets, and then remove them.

Any reason why folks are recommending epoxy rather than Tite Bond wood glue?

Aliphetic resins, like Titebond, only properly adhere to raw wood and are strong in joints where there are no gaps.