Make a binding jig
 

I made this binding jig about seven years ago and have been using ever since with consistent success:

https://farm7.staticflickr.com/6177/...ce6f8161_b.jpg

I've had a number of people ask me about it and thought others might be unhappy with their current system and would like to try this set up:

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2919/...63909798_b.jpg

I put together a little Flickr album with measurements and I added notes in the description. Here is a link to the album:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/283528...h/32356157733/

If you go for it I hope it serves you as well as mine has worked for me!

Mark

I have a down cut bit but it is only 1/4" diameter. I find I get inconstant results due to unintended movements with my version of the jig. I was wondering if I should go to a larger diameter even though that means loosing the down cut feature?

As an aside, the original jig comes from Jean Larrivee and his apprentices. I first saw it in the 1970's while visiting Grit Laskin.

A commercial version of the jig is available from Canadian Luthier Supply, https://www.canadianluthiersupply.co...ts/binding-jig. There is an "improved version" also, though I can't find the link to it at the moment.

In my opinion, having tried many binding jig options, this is the best of the jigs out there. Easy to use, gives excellent results and is difficult to screw up.

Thanks, Mark, for sharing your design.

If I understand what you said, the cutter diameter is 1/4". If that's the case, I believe the larger diameter is helpful. Here is why, with the larger diameter cutter you can use larger diameter dumb bells and with those you can line the center of the dumb bell with the center of the cutter. This way you rock the side left and right without changing the depth of the cut. This helps a lot for curves, like the inside of a cut away. Also the larger diameter dumb bell is just going to slide easier.

That original Canadian design was probably the first time I saw this kind of set up. They weren't making them 7 years ago when I made this. I've also seen very similar designs that were used in the 40s that were belt driven instead of using a router.

So then, what are you saying about me? :confused:

Nothing. It probably says something about your jig, though.

Interesting. I didn't know that.

Kudos for making your own.

Just kidding.

Chris Ensor makes a really nice version...

Thanks, that's what I was looking for and couldn't find the link or the name. An obvious improvement over the Larrivee type jig.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P0phI-2I4DI

Thank you, Mark! Much appreciated!

Hi Mark, thanks for sharing those plans and pics. Couple questions.what are the 2 diameter sizes of the dumb bells? Do you need a smaller rabbet bit with the smaller dumb bell? And do the wheels turn or do you just glide across the dumb bell. Hope I don’t sound like a dumb bell. Thanks

The different size dumb bells are to cut different depths. The cutter remains the same. It is better to change the diameter of the dumb bell then to simply raise or lower them. When the dumb bells centers are aligned with the center of the cutter it will cut the same depth when you rock the guitar left or right like when you're in tight places. I actually have about 5 sizes that meet my needs.

The side just slides along the nylon dumb bells. I haven't tried making them roll but, I believe that little bit of resistance might be better for control. In any case it isn't a problem not rolling.

Ok, got it. Thanks, can you share with us the diameter of the wheels most commonly used? You mentioned you had 5 sets. Thanks in advance.

I did something very similar and have probably 10 guitars on it so far.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lp...A=w932-h933-no

Here are the sizes of the dumb bells I made. The main three are 28mm for the binding, 25mm for the bottom purfling, and 21 for the top purfling. When I use abalone which is a bit shallower I use 24mm and 30mm also. I'll fine tune the diameter with a wrap of binding tape on the dumb bells as needed.

Interesting. Building jigs can be fun. I may try this.

I’ve been hunting for parts and am finding precious little locally to make different sized dumbbells. Yours looks to be adjustable. Are you using locking washers to keep the guide from working loose while the router is running?

I have since changed that design to eliminate the dumbell. I was building a couple Ukes and a mandolin and as you can imagine the bodies were two narrow. So now it's just a rounded adjustable block design that works just fine.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8W...R=w531-h944-no

There is a threaded insert in the adjustable block and I routed out a slot so it can slide up and down. In this pic you see a dovetail slot but it's actually routed through. It's the only pic I could find but illustrates the point.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Fl...=w1080-h860-no

This is the old version again but just to show that there is a threaded knob that goes through the back of the board into the threaded insert of the adjustable block to lock it down tight. I think maybe I did add a lock washer to it but it's probably not even necessary.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/M0...=w1080-h860-no

@redir, that second picture didn't come through. I like your idea about just rounding off the plywood guide block. Finding components is nearly as difficult as it is justifying buying all the expensive jigs from StewMac and LMI.

That being said, I got something workable put together. I haven't tested it yet though. I went with a 1/4" x 2" tension rod with 1/4" (inner diameter) x 3/8" (out diameter) x 1.4" wide nylon washers. I need to figure out a way for it to stay put in that groove but otherwise everything is aligned. I'm going to try to drill a hole through the guide black to thread a 3" x 3/8" steel sheet metal screw through and into the slot in the tension rod of the dumbbell. If it doesn't work, I've always got more plywood and threaded inserts.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...f64c04_z_d.jpg

PS: pay no attention to the laminate trimmer I have mounted to it. It's a $30 cheapie from Harbor Freight. I'm on a shoestring budget. The jig cost me less than $20 to make. The router bits cost more.

Is a down cut bit important? I see them at Stewmac and LMI but they both have an extension for a bearing and I think that might not work with this design.

[QUOTE=redir;5713223]I did something very similar and have probably 10 guitars on it so far.
So Redir, it appears that yours has a fixed 'dumbell' and the foot that it mounts to is adjustable - which seems like a more logical design than changing the dumbell for every different cut or setup.

I tried updating that second pic.

I think the advantage of using dumbells that are interchangeable is that you can move along more quickly and perhaps make the the whole jig a lot stiffer which may make it more accurate. But of course you have to have specified depths of binding which for the most part I almost always do but my purfling schemes differ a lot so I like the fine adjustments.

Neil you will want some kind of doughnut though for sure.

EDIT: re-read the entire thread and found this post redundant.

I see some people use metal flanges for the donut but there are also rounded nylon donuts which seem better but I haven't been able to locate anything like that in my local hardware store. Can something like that be found in the plumbing section? My only other option is to use some sort of oversized flat nylon washer.

BTW, my laminate trimmer is pretty chintzy so that's as far down as it will go. I tried installing a metal flange but my router bit wouldn't extend beyond it. I may have to ask for a new router for Father's Day! ;)

I would love to find a better donut too so if you ever do find one post it. I think a lot of people make them from cutting board material. I'm not really tooled up to do that so I never tried it.

Sounds like a perfect candidate for 3D printing. My local library offers walk-up 3D printing, limited to size of the machine and an hour's run time. Maybe I'll model one and try printing it.

Brilliant! Indeed a 3d printer would be perfect for such and application.

That's a good idea, Charles. Our local library offers one as well.

Frankly though, I'm stumped that such a fitting can't be found easily off the shelf at the local Ace Hardware.