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Dave Abrahamson 09-30-2018 01:04 PM


Originally Posted by mirwa (Post 5848014)
I am currently repairing a Martin 000-15M 12 fret, here is a photo of the inside of the guitar top, it may help with your decision making regarding brace layout.


Looking forward to the "after" photo.😁

FPerezRoig 10-06-2018 11:01 AM

Hi guys,
Finally got some binding materials for the guitar`s rosette.
What do you think? Hope you like it!
Finished carving braces for top and back, and will be gluing them in a couple of days.
Can't wait to route the rosette channel, hopefully next week.


ruby50 10-06-2018 11:15 AM


What is the brick-like layer to either side of the abalone? What will you use for binding?


mirwa 10-06-2018 07:35 PM

Very tasteful


FPerezRoig 10-07-2018 02:59 AM

Cheers mates,

The abalone strip is sandwiched between two strips of golden pearl.

I plan using curly maple binding for the sides with an abalone strip around the top contour. Any suggestions? Hope the top binding isn't too much, as I wouldn't want the guitar to look overburdened with bindings.

JonWint 10-07-2018 09:30 AM

Looks like this except cocobolo instead of maple.


FPerezRoig 10-08-2018 08:52 AM

Looking nice! The contrast between maple and rosewood would be even better, imo.

TEK 10-10-2018 12:01 PM


Originally Posted by FPerezRoig (Post 5855887)
Hi guys,
Finally got some binding materials for the guitar`s rosette.
What do you think? Hope you like it!
Finished carving braces for top and back, and will be gluing them in a couple of days.
Can't wait to route the rosette channel, hopefully next week.


I like the look.
Hopefully you are planning on installing the rosette before you brace the top. Much better to do that on a flat piece of wood.

FPerezRoig 10-27-2018 11:29 AM

Cheers Travis.
Yes, I'm finishing the rosette and will be gluing the braces in the next few days.

Couldn't work on my guitar for some time, but I managed to route the rosette and install the abalone and purflings in place. I modified my router's base with great success as per your suggestions.

Applied a coat of shellac first, then put everything in place, and flooded with thin cyanoacrylate.

First mistake, I cut the purflings too high, and had to struggle to scrape the excess off. Now they're just a tad above the guitar's top, as in the next picture.

What do you think? Would it be safe to sand the rosette totally flat using a rotorbital sander? I have a Makita bo3710 for this.
I am concerned to continue scraping more material off using my scraping blade, in case I damage the guitar's top.

This is proving to be a great learning experience.

ruby50 10-27-2018 11:38 AM

I might use a card scraper to flatten it all out level with the top before I went to a sander. Very quick to scrape.


mirwa 10-27-2018 10:37 PM

Agreed, scrape it to height, far cleaner finish than that left with a power tool.


FPerezRoig 10-31-2018 03:02 PM

It worked great, cheers mates.

Took quite a lot of time to level it all out, but now I can swipe my finger on top of the rosette without noticing the edge of it.

As you can see, the wood on the edge of the rosette is still a little bit darkened by shellac and cyanocrylate, maybe this is a good time to start sanding all this area thus getting rid of the adhesive and shellac?

Can't wait to start voicing the top!


FPerezRoig 11-01-2018 01:22 PM

After a lot of reading on this forum and other websites, drew the bracing pattern on top of the guitar. Thought I'd share it here in case you guys spot something bad or unusual.

I plan sanding the top horizontal brace flat, as I guess it will be easier to install the fingerboard afterwards, being my first guitar and all.... Is it a good idea??

Still wonder whether to add a popsicle brace or not. Recently read an article by Bryan Kimsey and his solution of not using one but adding a trapezoidal brace with beveled edges wedged in tightly between the neckblock and soundhole brace.

Have some of you used this technique?

charles Tauber 11-01-2018 06:45 PM

Looks okay, though I'd have the bridge plate extend further towards the butt end of the guitar. For a very small bodied guitar, you likely don't need to double the side and bottom braces.

I use a one-piece end block that is more or less "L" shaped, with the leg of the L glued to the underside of the top and abutting the upper transverse brace (sound hole brace). It also houses the truss rod that extends through a hole in that brace. In some cases, I extend the two braces on the sides of the sound hole through cutouts in the upper transverse brace. They are angled to be about parallel with the sides of the fingerboard. They extend to the linings of the upper bout. Between the extended braces and "L" shaped end block, a popsicle brace isn't possible.

FPerezRoig 11-02-2018 06:51 AM

Thank you Charles!
I didn't know of an 000 or om sized guitar with single side and bottom braces. Do you have some examples to share?

Your approach of end block sounds great.
As per the bridge plate, i thought its sole purpose was to protect the top from the string ends, and for that reason I made it smaller.

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