Dang dude, you got your hands full with that one :eek:

I would not call that a repair but rather a build :D

By the looks of it, forward X-Brace and wide open.

Is that a piece of NTSB evidence? Good lord.

Could the owner buy a D45 for what you have to charge him/her?

:) Just another day in the world of repairs.

Not as dear as you would imagine to fix, well under replacement value, and this one now has sentimental value to its owner

Steve

Thanks mirwa,
Wondered how the guitar ended up like that :cry: :cry:
Good luck with the repair!!

I'm struggling to route the rosette, as I thought would be better idea to route the soundhole and rosette prior to starting bracing the top.
What do you guys use to carve small circles?

I've got a makita rt0700 router and a dremel routing base, but both tools look too big for this small diameter routing job.

I can't imagine wanting to brace first, then cutting sound hole and rosette: it is much easier to cut the rosette, then sound hole, then brace.

You could use a circle (fly) cutter in a drill press or you could make/modify a router base/circle jig to make allow smaller holes. Typically, the router base interferes with the circle jig for small circles. Depending on the jig/router base, alter the base to accommodate smaller circles.

These days, I use an M-Power base on a full size router. Not cheap, but versatile and does a good job: http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...=1,43000,51208

Cheers Charles,
Glad I didnt start bracing, I was about to so when realised Its not a good idea.

I dont have a drill press, will try to alter the dremel base to acommodate smaller circles.

Fingers crossed, hoping i dont mess the top up

A quick update.
I routed a channel for the backstrip to realise most people sandwich the backstrip between both rosewood parts. :(

I glued it with cyanocrylate, but applied shellac first to the channel.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...sbmodxgwf.jpeg

Here the result. Still plan to add a thin strip of abalone in the middle.

[http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psfevihta2.jpg

I've done both and haven't found it makes any difference. It is quicker and easier to sandwich.

That looks nice however, very tastefully done, did you apply shellac to the channel before gluing the insert in, is that what you were saying.

Steve

Thanks Steve, yes, I read you may taint the wood if you dont seal it first with some lacquer.

Hopefully your referring to protecting a stain from happening to areas not being glued, you really IMO don’t want shellac in the area being glued.

The jig I use comes from LMII, basically it scrapes a channel rather than cuts a channel, gives a super clean edge as per last macro attached, up close of the fit.

Steve

http://www.mirwa.com.au/images/RCH25.JPG

http://www.mirwa.com.au/images/RCH27.JPG

http://www.mirwa.com.au/images/RCH34.JPG

I'm afraid I applied shellac through all routed channel. Backstrip seems to be glued fine, though.

Lesson learned! I'll put shellac only to the surrounding area from now on.
Your cutting jig looks spot on! The edge is so clean.

Cheers,
Fran

If you will using CA glue (like for abalone) for binding/purfling it is recommended to seal the channel before gluing to prevent glue absorption. Dewaxed shellac works well in this case.

+1 on John
I think you are trying to seal any open end grain from getting the CA glue absorbed into it. When you rout the channel, there is end grain opened on the side of the channel.

This is great news, as I will be adding abalone to both top and back.
I applied unwaxed blonde shellac to the backstrip the other day. :up: