I glued a dark brown veneer inside the slots for the classical guitar (nylon strings :

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CAU5ALyVIAAfHnk.jpg:large

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CAU5CUkU0AEeB_k.jpg:large

When you look at the back of the head you will only see carbon fiber, the slots for the classical guitar tuners are not visible from the back like this :

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CAVApAaW8AACtDQ.jpg:large

Here are some different sound hole options, i am thinking about.

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CAU68pPUUAAC3EY.jpg:large

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CAU7BwIUkAATH4N.jpg:large

As stated earlyer, the body was to thin so it could be dented, thin is good for vibration, but a ploink sound when the back pops back is bad.

This padouk wood strip will stop that.

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CAU69ToUYAAaXUn.jpg:large

Gluing it in :

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CAU76wBUUAAt-TD.jpg:large

Neck mockup (sideview of the fingerboard with binding, and carbon fiber neck (not sure if i like it).

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CAU707_VEAEe5NW.jpg:large

Padouk glued in :

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CAZlZQEUYAARnPk.jpg:large




Preparing to put the dots in:

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CAZlcQqVEAEtED2.jpg:large

That Padauk strip does not look very thick. Doubt it will do much.

Hi!

It helped to get rid of the ploinky ploink.

The layer was to thin so it could be dented. The padouk was only a measure to prevent the back from popping. the real model will have the proper thickness so this wood will no longer be needed.

The back has an arch in it, so it is difficult to bend the wood against the arch.
i made a before and after movie : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a_sd...ature=youtu.be

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Glued the second strip :

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CAeZvq9UUAE8TZM.jpg:large

Dots finished :

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CAeZwQBUcAA55g3.jpg:large

Finally, after more then a week waiting i have my hollow carbonfiber 6x6mm square tube. This will resist the linear force of the string tension.

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CAyt3lEUcAADJJ6.jpg:large

I am using the big guns, hehe It is very important to use the proper glue for composit to composit, composit to wood, or composit to metal.

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CAyt4MBU0AAm9S6.jpg:large

There is another piece of wood on top of the carbonfiber tube. so the fingerboard has something under it. I am also thinking about injecting the rest of the neck with a carbon/wood epoxy pulp.
https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CAyt40TVIAAHByR.jpg:large

I want to do a kickstarter to build new molds and enhance the overal production quality as well as buy cheaper materials (almost 40% when you buy 100m instead of 1m) . This crowdfunding campaign will feature a limited series of a maximum of 8 guitars.


I want to have the composit making/baking mold, a cutting mold and a glue mold. Then the parts can hop from one to another, this will save alot of time and improve accuracy since all the tooling is dedicated per job...

My new workspace allows for this all on 1 worksurface, the baking mold will roll on linear bearings into the oven.

Decided to put the solid round bar in the opposite direction of the hollow square tube :

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CA85_6tXEAAlodD.jpg:large

The fretboard will have support for downward force, all the way to the last fret.
https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CA86AZKWcAAUzKa.jpg:large

Wrapped the juncture with loose carbonfiber strands saturated in epoxyglue.

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CA86A93WwAAFQcs.jpg:large

It sill start to look like a guitar soon, and then it will be a little bit more relatable then all this carbon stuff ^_^

I wanted to wait with shaping the soundboard untill i have the stability i`m after in the body, because the soundboard will be dropped into the body and i don`t want any gaps.

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CA-EEO8VIAAvO79.jpg:large

Shaped and fitted the cedar soundboard to fit exactly (no bindings yet)

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CBCHLEKU8AAtRWc.jpg:large

Inlay the rosette :

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CBC6K3hU0AA0hCl.jpg:large

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CBC6KT5UUAArE5S.jpg:large

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CBDF31bU0AA-jH2.jpg:large

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CBDF4Y9UsAAjwW-.jpg:large

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CBDF5KPVEAEGpVK.jpg:large



https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CBDF5S0VIAAtoZx.jpg:large

Glue with epoxy glue with a black epoxy dye. Dont know if that was smart, black was coming through the rosette itsself, Thats why you prototype a model. I`ll try to clean it up tomorrow.^_^

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CBDTStnW4AEkzcD.jpg:large

Oldest clamps are the best, from a time where people made quality, and not profit junk.
https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CBDTTJDWEAIK-F2.jpg:large

The guitar is currently 1449 gram (3.19449818 pounds).

This picture is from before the rosette inlay :

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CBCy7wyU8AAkyy1.jpg:large

Cleaned up the rosette :

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CBHYtbAWQAE23Sk.jpg:large

1 layer of thin spray varnish to protect this delicate cedarwood for the next operations. You can dent this super fast.

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CBIc-ERW4AMQNBF.jpg:large

While I am not a luthier, I believe that you want to keep the soundboard unfinished so that the bridge (+/- fretboard) can be glued to it cleanly.

There was a notorious phase in Guild's history when they were gluing bridges to finished soundboards. The result was that most of those bridges came unglued within a few short years.

Hi!

That is correct, you should remove the varnish for the bridge.

Some guitar companys use a router to get the finish off. I have even seen a youtube video of a japanese company where they use a chisl to get the varnish off. In my opion, Japanese chisels are the best, they are using the knowledge of their past in sword making in tools, like folding layers of steel and quenching the edge.

Isn`t that amazing?!

I`m gonna put the bridge on with 2500psi epoxy glue. I am now thinking if i should make an ebony bridge or a carbon fiber bridge.

Bracing pattern with extremely thin pultruded carbon strips (0.6mm = 0.02 inches) :

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CBSXXrwUkAAQWrL.jpg:large

reinforced all the cavitys in the head with industrial epoxy glue :

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CBXRZtbWEAE0FA_.jpg:large

Carbon strips glued, extra glue in the sides, painted black, 2 clearcoats :

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CBXxu-YUsAAB6r6.jpg:large

Removing the paint, cleargoat and glue along the edge (violin plane, the size of the last bit of your pinky finger) :

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CBX2iJAU8AEy7Z8.jpg:large

Clean the entire lining and inside of the carbon fiber that extends upwards :

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CBX7Yf-WUAAjra2.jpg:large

Gluing the soundboard on the unibody 2500 psi industrial glue and with binding tape (Didnt cut the soundhole yet for structural integrity and straight lines :

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CBYLOCxU0AAH9fs.jpg:large

Did you put any arc on the top? What humidity level are you building in?