Ease of play
 

For one that has arthritis, is there an electric that is more easy on the hands? Or are most electrics the same?

i am interested in an LP but also considering Strats. I do realize that the set up and string choice make a difference. Mainly asking about the fretboard and frets.

I bought a Gretsch 2420 hollow body 2 months ago and it is not as easy on the hands as I thought it would be.

After 30+ years of strict acoustic playing (strumming chords and finger picking chord shapes) I would like to delve into more lead type playing.

I do plan on trying both of them out later on this week.

Thank you in advance.

CA

I would have thought that your Gretch with 10 gauge strings, short scale and slim neck could be made quite easy on the hands and fingers.

Have you had the guitar setup since you bought it?

Not surprised about your experience with the Gretsch 2420 - the 2400/2600 Series Electromatics are nothing more than another run-of-the-mill Chinese/Indonesian import, with a few Gretsch styling cues and QC commensurate with their origins. If you're really hooked on "That Great Gretsch Sound" (I've been a Gretsch owner/player since 1964, and a fan long before that) and don't want to spring the big bucks for either a vintage original or one of the Japanese-made Professional Series, check out the Korean 5400/5600 Series E-matics: QC/playability is head-shoulders-and-navel above anything in its price range (every bit the equal of the big-buck models, and often exceeding the Brooklyn instruments of the '50s-60s), they have the unmistakable Gretsch tone (something the lower-line E-matics lack), and at under $1K they're arguably the most guitar you'll get at a Working Joe/Jane's price...

While Strats and LP's are fine guitars in their own right - FYI I presently own examples of both - Paul makes a good point about the shorter scale length of the Gretsch (typically 24.5" - 24.6") being easier to handle. Although I'm not sure whether Gretsch adopted this spec for the 2400/2600 E-matics, suffice it to say that they don't handle like a traditional Gretsch electric - as an ex-Brooklyn boy with 55+ years experience under his now-ample belt I've played a good few hundred from the '50s to the 2K-teens - whereas the MIK models do; I A/B'd my '16 5622T-CB against the '64 Double Annie I bought brand-new in sixth grade and, other than the expected weight difference (the 5622 is a semi-hollow, and mine scales in over nine pounds - similar to some of the early-70's Gibson ES-345/355 models) the feel and playing characteristics are uncannily similar - and as perviously stated, far better than many of the older ones I've played. Personally, I wouldn't go all the way down to 10's on such a short scale - you're going to lose a fair bit of tone in the process (voice of experience here - tried that in the early-70's and went right back to 12's) - but a set of 11's with a wound G should be a good compromise, and flatwounds will not only be easier on the fingers but will allow you to set the action even lower (an old Bop-era jazz players' trick, BTW)...

Finally, if you're looking for minimum reach Fender has several Jaguar and Mustang-based instruments in their lineup, at a variety of price points - the slimmer neck (1.625" - 1.65") coupled with the short 24" scale should allow for easier fingering, and IME action on a Fender can be set lower than many set-neck guitars. There's also the ultra-short-scale (21") - and ultra-pricey - Rickenbacker 325 favored by both John Lennon and John Fogerty which, while not exactly a modern "lead guitar" sound, might be worth considering if you want to explore some different options and/or extend your playing days in the event conditions worsen...

Hope this helps... :)

Well, a lot to consider. Primarily scale length, nut width and neck shape. Typically an LP will be short scale and a beefier neck, while a Strat will be long scale and thinner neck profile. But, there are all types of variations. Probably something with a shorter scale and slim neck profile might be good to look at, but you'll never know until you get your hands on them. Another to consider might be a PRS. They would normally have a middle of the road 25" scale, and offer both regular and slim neck profiles, with a lot of tonal variety.

Gibsons or anything with a 24.75" scale length are going to be easier to play with 10s than a Fender with a 25.5" scale length will be with 10s. Although you can make a 25.5" easier by going down a gauge in strings. I tend to select the gauge depending of how much bending I want to be doing. Don't be afraid to try out 9s or even 8s.

I have not had it set up. It seemed easy enough to play when I tried it in the store. I guess most anything would have felt easier coming from playing mainly acoustics. That will be my next step.

I have a recently acquired G&L ASAT Classic Bluesboy (Tele style guitar). It is one of the easiest playing electric guitars i've played. However, this may be true of any Telecaster though. I'm a 55 year old blues dood and find that my hands never tire from all the bending that that entails while playing the G&L.

Try a Tele style guitar.

Everyone has their favorites. You need to find yours- fat neck, skinny neck, wide thin, d shape, c shape, v shaped, etc...all kinds as you can see. You need to narrow your choice. I am pretty neck insensitive. But I have found one shape that bothers my hand after a while. For you it might be perfect. Spend some time with a lot of guitars. You will be happier in the long run.

There are various Gibson SGs and Les Pauls out there, some with necks thinner than others so you can pick what you prefer (thicker or thinner). In addition, you can also top wrap the strings which reduces the tension even more.

Like acoustics, electrics guitar necks come in various widths and shapes and transitioning across from acoustic is not difficult. (Just play a few examples and find a guitar that you like and feels comfortable to play and not too dissimilar to your acoustic).

The other thing to consider is having the guitar professionally set up and your choice of string gage which may make a difference to your ease of playing.

Good luck.

I think the short answer is that it doesn't matter much. A shorter scale (like the 24.75 on an LP); lighter strings (really pretty much as far down as you want to go, but I'd suggest .010-.046 or lighter); and a thicker (not thinner) neck profile seem to be the three things most likely to make a difference, if anything will.

I have arthritis at the base of my left hand thumb. I searched and searched for a neck profile that minimized the discomfort I feel playing. The best thing yet is the compound radius neck on the Fender Elite Tele and Strats. I sold a few guitars to pick up one of each. May not work for you, but they are very comfortable for me.

For me, the thinner neck is a plus. The mild V on the Clapton Strats is pretty good too.

This is easy.

First, only play 8's or 9s. Not 10s. Period. Ever again. Ignore what you hear about tone. Its just fine to play 7s even, though its not necessary.

Second, the shorter the scale length the easier the action. Les Paul wins.

Next....

My '69 Thinline Tele is the easiest playing guitar I've ever played of any - mine, other people's, in stores, electric or acoustic. Period. :)

Billy Gibbons, Jeff Beck, Page, Iommi, Malmsteen, BB King use(ed) 8s. Hendrix, EVH, James Hetfield, Satriani, Vai, Brian May, Smith/Murray use(d) 9s. If your style is bend heavy there is no need to torture yourself. I can get a good 60s surf sound with 8s. The string gauge effects tone thing is an excuse if you ask me.

I play Parker guitars specifically the Fly guitar. Though the company is out of business they’re available still.
I have two one weighs 5 lb 8 oz, the other 5 lbs 14 oz.
They sound great with 9’s (NYXL’s)
Thin necks, light weight, unique style/design, very nice guitars.
Just my opinion
Cheers
I’m 58 and work with my hands so ease of play and weight issues are solved with these axes.

I have yet to pick up a Tele that I thought was difficult to play.

A good setup goes a long way to improve playability.
A shorter scale length (like a PRS Santana or Mira X or a Gibson) and lighter strings will reduce string tension.

For me, the setup helps more than the other factors. One of my easiest guitars to play is a Tele.

Only one Fender Telecaster comes to mind for me. (Great looking relic in my local music shop which I was allowed to take off the wall and play only to find disconcertingly that it had a baseball bat size neck which would have taken some getting used to).

Yep.

In fact, in a Daryll's house episode Gibbons said he played 7s for a while.

D.

I use 10s and 25.5" scale a lot, but my action is significantly lower than anything you'll find at a guitar shop. I typically play stuff with a 12"+ radius so I can set the action much lower.

I generally like 9's but 10's are okay. (Nothing higher or lower though).

I can’t play anything bigger than 9’s on a 25.5” electric. Unless I’m tuned to D or lower.

I think that if you get it set up with the correct strings any guitar should be easy or at least easier on your hands. I would try to get the neck as flat as possible without buzz and use light guage strings. That might alleviate some of the pain when you play.

I'm so used to playing acoustics that using heavier gauge strings on my Tele doesn't bother me at all. I disagree with those who say it doesn't affect your tone. It all depends on how you play, what type of music and how much distortion you use.
Billy Gibbons can get away with 8's because of his rig and the style of music he plays. Stevie Ray Vaughn played very heavy strings and they were integral to his "tone". Ask anyone who tries to copy that tone if it matters.
If you play clean or with just a mild OD, heavier gauge strings will add thickness.
Besides, I figure if I can bend an 11 on an acoustic, I can sure as heck bend one on an electric. YMMV.

As stated by others, there are multiple factors involved. For ME, neck shape and profile are a huge deal. Thicker D shaped necks are my preference. I also prefer Maple necks and fretboard, though I cannot explain why.

While I suppose one could use 7's or 8's, I usually play 10's and find them very easy on the fingers. I have played 9's but they feel too slinky for me. As Steve also mentioned, there are some pretty cool options with a 24" scale in the Fender line.

Tone and aesthetics aside, IMHO - I would find out in this order:

#1 - Neck shape/profile preference
#2 - Scale preference
#3 - How low a gauge strings do you feel are necessary
#4 - GET A SET UP DONE

I cannot speak to how well any gauge below 9's play, as i have never gone that low. I use 10's for standard E and 11's for open G. Yeah, SRV played 13's tuned down a half step but he's, well, SRV.

Set up is super important. Some like VERY low action, but I do a LOT of bending and I find super low action a bit prohibitive in that regard.

As noted, shorter scale, smaller strings, slim neck, and a good setup really help. But here a little mentioned item that makes a BIG difference: jumbo frets. Jumbo frets require a lighter touch or fretting will pull the string sharp. The guitar that has all of these characteristics (except setup, which is aftermarket) is the Gibson Memphis ES-335 DOT with the '60s slim taper neck. Around 2005 the tall frets and slim taper were the standard. They run around $2200 these days.

Bob

I remember reading on a different forum where a lot of players with arthritis and tendonitis preferred guitars with thicker necks. Neck thickness and shape seemed to be a big issue.

A lot depends on how people hold the neck. Giant hands aside, guys who prefer the baseball bat neck tend to use thumbover technique and grip the neck very tightly. Loosen the grip and/or use more of a classical neck technique and thin necks can work, although another benefit is that neck shape isn't nearly as critical.

Maybe try a getting a used vintage Gibson Melody Maker or SG Junior. Most play like butter and a have a sweet clean sound. Both light and comfortable and well balanced. Vintage USA fit and finish.