Playability question
 

Some recent posts have discussed string resistance, suggesting that the pressure needed to fret a string should be the same at the 12th fret as it is at the first. I would love to have that kind of action.
I have a new to me Bourgeois Slope D 12 fret and put on JP 80/20 (12-53). The volume and tone are very nice. But open chords require considerably more finger pressure at the first few frets than down the neck. I am about 7 months into my guitar experience and have developed decent callouses. But my left hand gets fatigued,especially at the wrist, from squeezing to flatten the strings. Some chords are difficult to maintain, like an open A, due to the amount of pressure my index finger has to exert given its distance from the fret.
The action is good, at least as I understand it - like about 2mm at the 12th.
So my question is whether it is whether it is realistic to have uniform string resistance from the first to the 12th fret. And if it is, is that most likely a nut height issue.
I plan to take the guitar in for a proper set-up. But, here in Maine, there aren't many luthiers to do this kind of work. I will get in touch with Dana Bourgeois' shop to see if they can either help or suggest someone to do the deed. Thanks for any suggestions and insights.
David

Curt Mangan makes 80-20 round cores with less tension.
You might try those to see if they help.

Your description sounds like classic 'action too high at the nut.'
I had a brand new Martin that was almost unplayable - good set up totally changed it.

Yep, you just need a good set up.

Play the A chord like this and you don't have to exert much pressure at all. Your index finger, being on the G string, allows for smooth changes to D chord and E chord. Also, don't push down on the strings so hard. The strings only have to touch the frets, not the fretboard. Pressing down hard is not required.

Attachment 30273

Just needs a quality setup...with special attention to the nut slot height.

Seconded - I’ve never played the first-position A any other way.

^^^^^^^^^^^^
Here’s your best fix!

Yes, sounds like a setup is needed. Most, if not all, brand new guitars benefit from a little tweaking to personal preference-like shifting a car seat.

Thanks, all for the kind replies.
What I take away is that it is not unreasonable for the resistance at the first frets to mirror what it is down the neck. I also did the capo test and,again, found it easier to fret with it on. And that this is likely a nut issue that can be remedied with a proper set up. That is very good news.
Rockdog49, I appreciate the string suggestion. I read about string alternatives to address this issue and bought a set of Martin Monels and DRSunbeam round cores to try(in 11). Clearly, though, a proper set up is in order.
I am familiar with the A chord configuration some of you suggest, and, to be sure, it is better than the three diagonal version, because it gets the fingers closer to the fret. It just does not come fluidly. That is just a matter of practice.
Again, gents, obliged for the help.
David

DR Sunbeams are very comfortable strings to play and will sound great on your guitar. Agree that a good setup is the first thing.

Enjoy your guitar playing journey!

Cheers, mate. The enjoyment is there in spades. I would just like it to be a bit easier to enjoy....
D

If you capo the first fret and it is easier to play, the slots on the nut are too high.

Set it up and/or humidify it. Dang near every guitar needs a good setup. A change in humidity can ruin a perfectly good setup.

Maine winters can turn a wood guitar into a potato chip. I keep my cases in a humidified room which I can get to 35-40. And then Humidipacks in each case which keeps the box at about 40-42. And I make sure to keep the cases off the floors with imbedded heat pipes. My saxophones just sit there wondering what all the fuss is about.