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A Contemporary Guitar made with Contemporary Hand Tools
I am making a spec Greta GA Bloodwood and Swiss Moon Spruce guitar in this build thread:
https://live.staticflickr.com/7919/4...2bc79c4a_b.jpg While building this instrument I want to showcase some of the available contemporary hand tools I am using in my studio. I want to demonstrate the value that hand tools bring to building a higher quality guitar. Hand tools are often shown as the traditional old romantic way of building. I'm not selling romance here I want to show the quality and accuracy that hand tools bring. specs: Back and sides: Bloodwood Top: Master Grade Swiss "Moon" Alpine Spruce Neck: One Piece Honduran Mahogany (35yrs Seasoned) Fretboard: Black Ebony Trim and Art Deco Inlays: Black Ebony, Bloodwood, Black Mother-of-Pearl Purfling: Black Wood, Maple, Bloodwood Florentine cutaway Arm Bevel Large Open Headstock Black Schertler Tuners Black Buffalo Horn Custom Tuner Buttons Nut and Saddle: Bone Nut Width 1 3/4" Saddle String Space 2 1/4" Finish: Catalyst Urethane Red to Black Neck Sunset Burst Here is the Bloodwood back and sides set: https://live.staticflickr.com/7855/3...7b8031bb_b.jpg Here is the back with one wet side: https://live.staticflickr.com/7865/3...8048320c_b.jpg I selected a set with a little figure and a lot of tap tone and sustain. Bloodwood is harder, stiffer, and heavier that Black Ebony and unlike Black Ebony it rings like glass. It is a very resonate wood with eternal sustain. You don't see it on guitars much because its hard to work with and bend. Here I am using a #62 Lie-Nielsen low angle jack plane on a shooting board to prepare the Bloodwood sides for joining. Planned wood glue joint is much stronger than a sanded wood glue joint for this long thin joint down the center of the guitar back: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...ebf1fdfd_c.jpg It is arguable that Lie-Nielsen is the single most influential company leading to the resurgence of hand tools that is occurring today. They have taken many of the classic hand tool designs (especially Stanley hand planes) and have updated them with currently available materials, accuracy of manufacture, and design improvements. The advantage of a low-angle plane is the blade bevel is on top. Which means if you have, say a highly figured piece of wood, you can optimize the blade cut angle to eliminate tear out by simply changing the blades bevel angle. It doesn't work like that with a high angle plane. Another feature available for this plane is the add on "Hot Dog" handle that adds better grip and control so you can achieve a perfect shooting board cut. OK so we're off. I want to add one more thing here on this first post. I am not trying to sell anything but my guitars here. I have no agreements with any tool makers. I researched and bought these tools like anybody else can. My only endorsement for any of these tools is my opinion that so far they were the best I could find and afford for what I do and how I do it. Thanks for Viewing! Mark |
Being an "old school" guy in almost everything I do - this will be very interesting to watch!;)
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You've written so much about this in your recent studio threads, Mark, that I am excited to see a dedicated thread that will highlight this central element of your builds :)
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Me too!
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Thanks for sharing this! Paul |
..very interesting and adoreable.. to learn and revive those old and dwindling techniques. I‘m in to follow as well!
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Mark
Great thread start. As a woodworker, I agree with you about Lie-Nielsen tools. Nearly flawless. I would also add Veritas to that description. In fact Veritas might even be a little more innovative. I’ve invested in both (and at their prices it is an investment) and love them. Good tools make any work a pleasure. Keep coming with your progress. Great choices of wood. It should be a beautiful guitar. Jack |
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Mark |
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I understand. I am jealous that you are so close Lie-Nielsen. It does make my marriage happier that I can’t just drop in to look at tools. :). Good look with your build. I’m going to be watching with great interest. Jack |
Thanks for posting this thread Mark. I'll be glad to learn how use of hand tools improves the quality. Hard to imagine with your guitars. Not doubting you ... just sayin'! :)
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Many thanks. Rick |
Great post Mr. Hatcher!. Years ago I bought a set of Lie-Nielsen hand planes and I use them consistently in my work. These, along with a nice set of chisels, are my favorite tools, and I think of how happy I am that I bought them all the time. Great quality American made tools.
I look forward to watching this post. |
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Great post, Mark, and I really look forward to following it. I have a question, if you don’t mind. I’m going to purchase a new plane for jointing and have been debating between a low angle jack plane and a longer jointer plane. Your thoughts? Thanks! Dave
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This should be fun! Way back, in a much earlier life, I owned a fine woodworking tool store. We had the best english, german, french, swedish, and japanese tools that could be found. Other than Starrett and Fuller, and our local carbide shop, there were very few american made items we could carry - just not a lot of quality. But it was starting - I remember getting out first Hock plane irons in - amazing steel on a par or better than much of the vintage steel we craved -
Now, I see the products from Bridge City, Lee Valley, Lie-Neilsen, Veritas, and another dozen or more small shops making incredible items that are so fine - very much like the fine guitars we have to choose from these days, too - Explaining the details of some of your tools choices and fixture designs would be a great addition for some of the people following this thread and maybe encourage them to try! |
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The plane is 14" long and the longest straight joint I use it for is about 22" when joining tops and backs. When using a shooting board the length of the plane doesn't really matter because the level reference is the shooting board not the plane. Hope that helps. Quote:
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