Binding glue
 

What glues are available for use these days that work for plastic/nitrocellulose bindings? I've been using wood, and now have a project that I'm using plastic bindings on.

I’ve used LMII’s FCA glue with good success. It was on plastic binding with wood purfling.

https://www.lmii.com/glue/2944-conta...ding-2-oz.html

Duco household cement

I've used Duco before, with good results. But it's been a long while, and I wasn't sure if it was still available, and the same formulation as the old stuff was.

I just did a guitar with plastic bindings which actually was the first time I had ever done this before. I used the stuff Stew Mac sells which is probably a Duco knock off. I've used Duco for rosettes in the past and it looked and smelled the same. Anyway it worked great.

I use Titebond I for ivoroid or tortoise celluloid binding. The trick is to do a quick acetone wipe on the binding. If you suspect that wouldn’t stick well enough, do an experimental test and then try to remove it after a day or so. You’ll lose any skepticism. The added advantage is that if you use wood purflings, as I do, the whole process is much simplified.

I use medium CA from Stewmac for all types of binding with either green or orange tape. It's worked well for me for many years.

I use this method for celluloid tortoise binding and it works great. I agree with the point that it's a good method for those who already use Titebond or similar glue for binding and purfling since the only change you make to your standard procedure is to wipe of the inside of the binding strips with acetone right before gluing. Otherwise, the procedure is the same.

duco cement i find is a good general purpose glue for nitro bindings, that or mix up your own with some acetone and binding scraps.

Steve

I've used acetone straight from the bottle on plastic and cellulose binding, but I far prefer thin CA. I tape it all up, leave 2" spaces between tape, flood in the exposed areas, then go back and take the tape off, flood where the tape was. I put two coats of dewaxed shellac on to protect the bare wood from CA run-off. For tight bends at waist or cutaway I use a tool to press everything tight while the CA sets.