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Fret height
I have noticed on my new Yamaha parlor that it it easy to mess up the tune of a lower string just by pressing. A string sounds OK when first fretted, but not when pressed to the wood, which has been my lifelong habit.
It made me think that new Yamaha frets are slightly higher than those on my old Martin. Is that good or bad? It is not worth paying to lower the frets. Would the frets be lower if I just bought a high end parlor like a Blueridge BR-371? Do all high end guitars get a factory Plek setup "that scans, levels, and dresses your guitar's frets to a microscopic level of accuracy for ideal action with no loss of sustain, minimized fret buzz, and no fretting out when bending strings, plus complete consistency whether you're playing low or high on the neck." https://www.sweetwater.com/shop/guitars/plek/index.php |
All my guitars have the largest fret wire available.
It requires an easy touch, but it also means I don’t have any callus on my fingertips. Perhaps you should put heavier string on? HE My New Website! |
Don't press so hard. There's no need to mash down on the strings unless your guitar has a particularly bad setup. And no, not all factories have Plek machines. Every Martin I have owned has needed a set up, and likewise every Yamaha. All a Plek machine does is ensure fret heights are consistent. They don't do individual setups.
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Plek is highly over sold in terms of any lasting accuracy. Don't worry about whether a Plek job has been done.
With taller frets you have a greater potential of over pressing and making notes play sharp. Just be aware of that and have your fingertips press closer to the fretwire when you can and you will likely soon overcome that issue. |
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I get the sense that ‘pressing too hard’ is something that many have a hard time unlearning from their beginning days. No matter the setup, if the string can be bent behind the fret, the more the bend the more the tuning issues. HE My New Website! |
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You fret too hard : We have to fret just behind the fret with the minimal pressure required to fret the note correctly.
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Hi Andrew and Howard,
pretty soon after I learned a few chords, and thanks to AndrewG, I then discovered bluegrass. I soon found myself bashing away at my guitar against banjos and fiddles and developed a very heavy approach with both hands; a common problem that wears both frets and carpel tunnels! It took me some years to learn that the "art" is to learn to fret only as hard as is necessary and to put the power into strings with the picking hand. What made me finally realise this was playing slide/bottleneck on a National. I'd strongly recommend to the OP (ajd other, newer players) that time considering and experimenting with learning how to play lightly with the fretting hand and applying power as necessary with the picking hand - it cod save you years of effort and refretting and hand issues. |
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I sold a Santa Cruz and my Martin because of sub .040" fret height. Like stubbing your fingers especially with the flat 16" fretboard. Playing in the center of the fret space gets old.
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I would have advised you to seek out players who also understood how to listen in an ensemble setting, kinda like that guy at the club....not:-) Yes, it takes time to relax, and still exert good force while maintaining economy of motion. HE My New Website! |
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A hand surgeon did the thumb joint at the same time as the Dupuytrens. |
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I prefer old guitars with worn frets, as I mash strings and send them sharp. |
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High Frets have an advantage of saving wear and tear on the fingerboard, the theory being that done correctly, your fingers never touch it. I like them low; the tall ones feel like railroad ties when I make a slide. And capos, which I rarely use, are less likely to pull them sharp.
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