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  #1  
Old 01-12-2011, 01:35 PM
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Default bridge glue...what do you builders use?

As the title says. I trust my repair guy, but as
his shop is currently backlogged a couple of
weeks, I thought I'd throw this out here.
The guitar is a Harp Guitar, so lots of tension.
LMI builders glue, hot hide glue, or something else?

Thanks
Mike
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Last edited by Oracle; 01-12-2011 at 04:44 PM.
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Old 01-12-2011, 04:37 PM
Brackett Instruments Brackett Instruments is offline
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Hot hide glue.
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Old 01-13-2011, 05:10 AM
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Kitchen Guitars Kitchen Guitars is offline
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I use Titebond yellow. Titebond is more forgiving and has more work time. I am working up to using HHG. I am sure its better for the job. I will have to try LMI white again. The first time I tried it nothing would stick. The more I learn the more likely it was me, not the glue.
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Old 01-13-2011, 11:30 AM
martinedwards martinedwards is offline
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Titebond yellow.

bear in mind that so long as you use pins, a big part of the force is on the bridge plate pulling up through the top rather than trying to pull the bridge off the top.

pinless bridges?

a whole other kettle of fish!
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Old 01-13-2011, 03:07 PM
Shabby Chic Shabby Chic is offline
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A lot more important than the glue is the joint itself. As long as everything fits together well you could use whatever you like and get good results.
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Old 01-13-2011, 04:18 PM
dekutree64 dekutree64 is offline
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+1 to hot hide glue. Wouldn't trust the yellow stuff not to creep, especially if it ever gets left somewhere fairly hot. LMI white would probably be good too, but hide isn't much extra trouble for such an important joint.
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Old 01-14-2011, 12:41 PM
murrmac123 murrmac123 is offline
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Since I haven't built my first acoustic yet, I am willing to defer to more experienced opinions, but my gut feeling would be that if you are going to use hot hide glue, then presumably you are going to do the saddle slot and string holes after the bridge is glued on (which is of course perfectly feasible and indeed may well be the preferred option.)

If, however, you are using a pre-drilled and pre-slotted bridge, then I would have thought that fish glue would be a much better option, since it allows much more open time than HHG, and would allow you to position and clamp your bridge accurately. Fish glue is also as rigid as HHG, in fact more so, so tone-wise, a good choice.
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Old 01-14-2011, 05:32 PM
Brackett Instruments Brackett Instruments is offline
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I do route my slot after installing the bridge, but not because of the open time of hot hide glue. A bridge is pretty much the easiest to piece to glue with hot hide glue. Hide glue gels at ~90 degrees. Due to the size and mass of a bridge it's really easy to heat it up, and it holds heat long enough to give you plenty of time to get it installed and clamped. I heat mine to ~130 degrees on a small burner.


Then I use 2 drill bits in the outside bridge pin holes to hold it in place while I'm clamping it.
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Old 01-15-2011, 09:55 AM
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Thanks for the responses so far.
It's interesting what works for one, isn't what the next
guy uses.
Keep your thoughts coming !


Mike
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Old 01-17-2011, 05:48 PM
runamuck runamuck is offline
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I use LMI Instrument Glue and love it.

Jim McCarthy
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Old 01-19-2011, 03:22 PM
JohnM JohnM is offline
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Hot Hide Glue for all parts that have a big effect on tone or a need to be reversed later on.
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Old 01-19-2011, 05:25 PM
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I use fish glue. All the benefits of HHG with lots of open time. No mixing or heating required.
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Old 01-19-2011, 06:41 PM
Rod True Rod True is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveS View Post
I use fish glue. All the benefits of HHG with lots of open time. No mixing or heating required.
+1 for fish glue. I use it for everything but the fretboard to neck.
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Old 01-20-2011, 08:14 AM
CET CET is offline
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Is fish glue really as reversible as HHG?
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Old 01-21-2011, 02:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CET View Post
Is fish glue really as reversible as HHG?
Yes, it's a great glue!
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