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  #16  
Old 04-23-2014, 07:57 AM
Bikewer Bikewer is offline
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I've had mine for about 3 years now. Never did a thing to it. Other than going to phosphor-bronze strings...
Action on my particular Mini feels about perfect to me... I do a mix of fingerstyle and flatpicking so I suppose if I were playing fingerstyle exclusively it could be taken down a tiny bit...
But I never have the slightest problem with left-hand fingerings.

I just bought an Ibanez semi-hollow electric, and one of the the things I liked when testing it was that it felt a lot like the Mini to play.....
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  #17  
Old 04-23-2014, 08:26 AM
jimidrake jimidrake is offline
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I just put a turn on the truss rod nut and the action is perfect. I did not need to shave the factory Tusq bridge saddle at all. A 1/4" deep thin wall socket and a ratchet(or in my case a 1/4" breaker bar) will do the trick. There is a video, or several, on YouTube that will show you how to do it and it's so easy for anyone to do, even if you aren't very handy.
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2013 Taylor GS Mini "Hog"(K&K Pure Mini)
2003 Taylor 455 RCE
2011 Taylor GAce 12 fret SLTD
K&K Pure Pre-amp
Fishman Aura Acoustic Imaging Blender D.I.
Peavey Ecoustic E-110 Acoustic Amplifier w/effects control pedal/looper
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  #18  
Old 04-23-2014, 11:21 AM
Dulcilo Dulcilo is offline
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Default Need new string

I just got my new Taylor Mini-e from Elderly this morning and promptly broke the G string in tuning it. I am new to guitar but not to stringed instruments so I was quite surprised as I have never had this happen on a new instrument before. Can someone tell me what type string to buy to replace this with the identical strings? Thanks.
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  #19  
Old 04-23-2014, 11:23 AM
Yanto Yanto is offline
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Dulcilo - they usually come fitted with Elixir PB Mediums I think
Ian
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  #20  
Old 04-23-2014, 12:52 PM
jimidrake jimidrake is offline
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Elixir PB Mediums it is. As far as all the detailed setup info folks are feeding you here, I must offer a very different opinion. Let me qualify this as I've been playing since 1976 and have done most of my own minor work on my guitars, having learned from being a stage guitar tech in my youth and having friends that are luthiers. Most setup operations on an acoustic guitar can be done with a truss rod wrench, edge cutters(dykes), a peg winder, sandpaper and a quarter(coin). Start by measuring the action at the 12th and 1st fret by placing a quarter between the fret and the low E string. If the quarter has excess space at the 1st fret, you need to adjust the string height at the nut. If not and there is space between the quarter and the low E string(If it's very visible(excessive) you'll have to shave the bridge saddle with moderate grit sandpaper(160 or so) on a flat surface with even pressure down to a predetermined height), loosen the tuners a few turns to counter the ensuing increased tension and remove the truss rod cover. Begin adjusting the truss rod(lefty loosy righty tighty gradually, maybe a third to half a turn at a time, and remeasure the space with the quarter and check for buzzing by fretting all the strings from the 1st fret up to around the 12th. Also check the space all the way down the fret board. The quarter should give resistance around the first fret but not require much of any force to fit. There are a few things to think about while doing this. 1. if you find buzzing at the middle frets then you may have gone too far and have to back up the truss adjustment. This should not happen if you gradually adjust and recheck. 2. If the buzzing is only on 1 or 2 strings you may need to dress the frets(although this is rare on a new guitar and more likely on one with worn frets). Again, there are many videos on YouTube that can help you do a basic adjustment that does not require a guitar tech.

Mind you, that this is the same quick method that most techs start with before plannning on more in depth or precise work(They don't charge much for an adjustment and have to make a living). The technically correct method of neck(truss rod) adjustment is done by capoing at the first and 11th fret, measuring the relief gap between the string and 6th/7th frets with a feeler guage to a specified width and adjusting accordingly. Each maufacturer/builder may have it's own standard measurement. An ever so slight bow in a neck is necessary to account for the oscillation of the string vibration. If you want to go that route you'll need to purchase the correct tools and acquire the specs from the builder.
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2013 Taylor 416ce SLTD
2013 Taylor GS Mini "Hog"(K&K Pure Mini)
2003 Taylor 455 RCE
2011 Taylor GAce 12 fret SLTD
K&K Pure Pre-amp
Fishman Aura Acoustic Imaging Blender D.I.
Peavey Ecoustic E-110 Acoustic Amplifier w/effects control pedal/looper
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  #21  
Old 04-24-2014, 06:17 AM
Dulcilo Dulcilo is offline
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Default Strings

Thanks, everyone. I got the Elixir PB medium strings and, yes that is an exact match. The folks at the store were surprised that I asked for the medium. Of course, they don't sell Minis, they deal in high end vintage instruments. If I hadn't had the good help from this site, I might not have been so sure to get the right thing. And interesting info jimidrake on set up. I just checked the action using a quarter, and a quarter will not fit at the first fret, while it is loose at the 12th, but not excessively so. Perhaps a tweak on the truss rod? Or leave well enough alone, since there are no buzzes and as a beginner it is playing easily enough for me.

Last edited by Dulcilo; 04-24-2014 at 06:22 AM.
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  #22  
Old 04-24-2014, 08:19 AM
MusicMan1 MusicMan1 is offline
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I have mediums on my GS mini and it is set up with bone saddle and nut ,no problem with setting it up.


Carl
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