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Using a wider Nut in a 12 string for fingerpicking?
I just bought a used Yamaha FG820-12 12 String Acoustic. An amazing value for a 12 string that sounds great for the money. The action is very low and it plays very easily.
The one issue I have with it is the string spacing. The nut is 1 13/16", which gives the guitar an almost electric-guitar feel on the neck for strumming. However for finger picking, the strings are a little too close for me and my fat fingers. Have you ever used a wider nut in a guitar - and then sanded down the ends of the nut so it would fit in the same nut slot? I was thinking about getting a 1 7/8" nut and sanding it down a bit on either end so it would fit in the nut slot - but give me a tiny bit more room for fingerpicking between the string pairs. -its only 1/16" wider - so taking off 1/32" from either end should be no problem. And I don't think it will mess up the string angle to the pegs. Thoughts? Will it really achieve anything? Have you ever tried this? Pluses & minuses? Thanks |
#2
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Widening the nut with an existing fingerboard is only as successful as it can be properly done without dragging one (or both) outside strings off the neck when fingering chords or runs. Widening the nut may give you more space in the first few frets, but by the time it reaches the other end it's back to 'original' A technique which will give you some extra space is to capo. The fingerboard widens as one moves toward the bridge. Even 3-4 frets will give you more space than the ⅟₁₆" wider nut your are proposing. And it's free (well for the price of a good capo). |
#3
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__________________
"Lift your head and smile at trouble. You'll find happiness someday." |
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https://youtu.be/ZjuC2NpXB9U?si=fzKTmDbnc8O906tn My fingers are big-ish and a too-narrow 12-string neck with Yamaha default (or any builder's standard) string spacing does not leave much space and can cause me to mute some fingerings. I fabricated a bone nut by hand using the .028 inter-pair spacing from the video and it worked out great - cost pennies and some time as most of the fabricating work was done with simple hand tools the old fashioned way so it took me a while. The string height is about .020 over the first fret on all right now. The video says he gets no buzz against other strings using this spacing and I don't either even though using light gauge strings and tuned down to D. It indeed makes a 12-string much easier to play cleanly. If you had a wider neck to begin you might experiment with incrementally larger spacing but .028 would seem to be the logical minimum. The spacing is quite intricate nut work and the nib between strings is very small. On the Yamaha 12 with a 1 13/16 neck .028 worked out great. You should certainly use best-practice to remove material from the top of the nut so most of the string sits proud of the top surface of the nut to minimize the inter-string nib height. Although the bridge end has the same spacing, I also relieved the 'forward' row of bridge pins on their left side so the octave string could sit closer the other string. This was easy using the larger size nut file and invisible otherwise. YMMV but it worked for me. Very inexpensive and reversible. I like it and will certainly do it to my LL16-12, which has the same nut width as the FG820-12. Spacing is now perfect on my Yamaha. Anyone thinking about a wider nut, try this route first and you might find you have a lot of space on your 12 even with a thinner neck. Last edited by redi; 04-30-2024 at 07:52 AM. |