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Another setup testimonial
I just recently got back three Taylor guitars that I have owned for 4 months, 8 months, and 14 months that in that time period have become keepers (K-22ce, 714ce, and 562ce) Taylor does a pretty good job on guitars leaving the factory with a decent setup but I’ve always found the 1st fret action is too high for my playing. It makes sense that Taylor sets the nut action high so you can set it up to what you like. But I wonder how many players look at that detail.
My luthier not only got the nuts set up properly, he also made slight adjustments to the saddles and necks and I’m just blown away by the improvements. My mantra is now to have every guitar I own sent to Phil for a setup. Phil also did my Robinson dread, my Collings OM1A, and a Pono 0020 that I just recently let go. I read lots of posts about folks not bonding with a guitar they thought they would love and it sure makes me wonder if a good setup and the patience to try different strings would have changed their viewpoint. Bottom line - don’t underestimate the value of a proper setup defined by your needs and style of playing.
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Doerr Trinity 12 Fret 00 (Lutz/Maple) Edwinson Zephyr 13 Fret 00 (Adi/Coco) Froggy Bottom H-12 (Adi/EIR) Kostal 12 Fret OMC (German Spruce/Koa) Rainsong APSE 12 Fret (Carbon Fiber) Taylor 812ce-N 12 fret (Sitka/EIR Nylon) |
#2
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Walker Clark Fork (Adi/Honduran Rosewood) Edmonds OM-28RS - Sunburst (Adi/Old Growth Honduran) |
#3
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What these guys said, for sure! I had no idea for my first 40 or so years of guitar ownership how much improvement a $30 setup could offer.
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#4
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If the nut slots needed to be higher, then a capo would never work, nor would fretting any string. There's no practical reason for the nut slots to be above fret height, and if there are exceptions due to playing style they are so rare as to be irrelevant for this discussion. Martin used to be a prime offender in this regard, but they've gotten much better since bringing the PLEK to all Nazareth production. Their out of the box setup is much better now. The best modern factory setups I've seen from them was on the early Authentics setup by the Repair Shop folks, all by very experienced hands. All that to say I'm not surprised by your experience and wholeheartedly agree that nearly any factory guitar will benefit from relatively inexpensive setup work, especially the nut slots. |
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I wish I knew of a good luthier near me. I'm not taking them to a box store.
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Barry Youtube! Please subscribe! My SoundCloud page Avalon L-320C, Guild D-120, Martin D-16GT, McIlroy A20, Pellerin SJ CW Cordobas - C5, Fusion 12 Orchestra, C12, Stage Traditional Alvarez AP66SB, Seagull Folk Aria {Johann Logy}: |
#6
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Where's Phil?
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Martins, Taylors, Larrivees (L-05, L-04, D-03R, O-09, OM-40, OM-40R, SD-50), Yamahas, Godins, Gretsch, Horabe, et al |
#7
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E----- A------D-----G------B-----E 25----22----22----22----20----19 I need no further convincing of what you say. A proper nut action set up would bring those down a long way with absolutely no risk of buzz, and would change the 'feel' of the guitar considerably. (Of course you can achieve the same sort of 'feel' by putting a capo at fret 1.)
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#9
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Set up
It's been discussed before, manufacturers typically set up high so you can take things down to suit your playing style.
If they start out too low we'd complain about having to replace nuts and saddles out of the box.
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1995 Taylor 412 1995 Taylor 612C Custom, Spruce over Flamed Maple 1997 Taylor 710 1968 Aria 6815 12 String, bought new |
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Set up
I use Phil also have for 22 years. He is located in Covington LA and he is amazing at set up, repair and building check out Anita Springs Guitar website
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#11
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"If the nut slots needed to be higher, then a capo would never work, nor would fretting any string. There's no practical reason for the nut slots to be above fret height, and if there are exceptions due to playing style they are so rare as to be irrelevant for this discussion."
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#12
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Yes the high- and v shaped - nut slots. Luthiers/techs please buy a set of Japanese, or equivalent files?
You don't know what you're missing until they're gone. In my town the top 2 luthiers are now closed up shop. It was a wonderful 20 or 30 years of perfect setups with great tools. Guitars that rang and stayed in tune. Now the few remaining are either temperamental or inexperienced with cheap tools. Plus the price has doubled. $80 for a basic setup that a good guitar usually needs only 15 minutes to do. Glad you got your Taylor's in perfect flow. |
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Had the pleasure of studying how to do a proper setup with Dave Collins and Hesh Breakstone of Ann Arbor Guitars. And the points made here are exactly correct.
Assuming the fretboard and fret planes are good, it’s all about the nut. Get that under control, and the saddle is easy. Dave’s personal guitar guitar is 3/64” at the 12th fret. Now you’re not gonna be flat picking Whiskey Before Breakfast any time soon with that kind of setup, but it speaks to what someone who really knows what he’s doing can do. Steve
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www.denvirguitars.com |
#14
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I agree proper nut slot cut is kind of a no brainer, yet most manufacturers do not get this. Most sellers do not either, I’ve had to twist arms to get action on first fret reaonsbable. Especially for online purchase. “Oh but if we cut it too low and you don’t like it, there is a no return policy.” Like the ridiculous strap pin thing (why strap pins are not normal factory feature is beyond me — even if you don’t like it, don’t use it). And then Taylor is really bad about this given their stelllar factory set up rep. I’ve owned 4 or 5 factory new Taylors and all but one have needed but work.
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martin D-28A '37 | D-18 | SCGC H13 | gibson SJ-200 taylor 814ce | 855 | GS Mini H.V. | goodall RP14 | Halcyon SJ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
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Doerr Trinity 12 Fret 00 (Lutz/Maple) Edwinson Zephyr 13 Fret 00 (Adi/Coco) Froggy Bottom H-12 (Adi/EIR) Kostal 12 Fret OMC (German Spruce/Koa) Rainsong APSE 12 Fret (Carbon Fiber) Taylor 812ce-N 12 fret (Sitka/EIR Nylon) |