#1
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pinch harmonics help
Hey guys, quick question:
Are there any tips for those starting out on pinch harmonics? Specifically, what amp settings/pedals will help with this technique? Keep in mind, I'm just starting out on this, so maybe I'm looking to cheat a bit |
#2
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Higher gain, bridge pickup...pick back and forth over the pickups to find the "nodes"...places where harmonics live...some of the most wicked ones are 17, 19, and 24 "frets" above the picked note...
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#3
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I was (and still am) a big fan of Skid Row and Ozzy -- and for years I struggled with pinch harmonics and couldn't figure out what I was doing wrong.
As per Jeff, right hand positioning is key. A cranked up amp on distortion also helps. I will add that you have to attack the note with confidence. If you hesitate even sightly, the harmonic won't come out. It's not a difficult technique. First, make sure you're at spot where harmonics are likely to come out -- and then vary your attack until you find the most effective angle. Once it's in your muscles, you can play pinch harmonics with pretty much anything, even a sweet acoustic. |
#4
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A compression/sustainer pedal helps a lot.
My all time favorite solo with pinch harmonics is Billy Gibbons second solo in ZZ Tops' "La Grange". As badass as it gets. |
#5
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Quote:
Harmonics are caused when the string is made to vibrate in fractions, by stopping it at a specific point, known as a "node". You touch that point to stop it vibrating there, and pick to one side. There are various nodes representing different string fractions and therefore giving different pitches. The simplest one is 12 frets above the fretted note, which is an octave up (1/2 string length). This is not usually high enough for the "squeal" of a pinch harmonic, unless you're fretting quite high on the top E, although it's the easiest harmonic to produce. If there are less than 12 frets on the guitar above your fretted note, you just need to estimate 1/2 the string length between fret and bridge. That's the touch point, remember, not the pick point. With a pinch harmonic, the pick is to one side of where the thumb touches. The important point is the fraction of active string length. This means the node positions change according to which notes you're fretting - there are no fixed points relative to the pickups, body or anything. (And another important point is that if a node is right above a PU, that PU will pick up no sound - so you need the other PU on.) Other node points (frets above fretted note): 7, 19 = 1/3, 2/3 string length (string vibrates in 1/3s) = octave plus 5th up. 5, 24 = 1/4 or 3/4 string length (string vibrates in 1/4s) = 2 octaves up. Good for squeals! If there are not enough frets to count, estimate 1/4 string length from bridge. (Look at the 5-fret distance above the fret, and estimate that far from the bridge.) 4, 9, 16 = 1/5, 2/5, 3/5 string length (string vibrates in 1/5s) = 2 octaves plus major 3rd up. (slightly out of tune) The smaller the fractions of string length you have to get moving, the fainter the harmonic and the harder it is to produce. But also the higher the pitch, and therefore the more satisyfying the squeal when you find it! With enough gain/compression, you don't need to do all this calculation, and can find node points in a lot of places (most players probably find them at random). But the math may help you if you don't find it working.
__________________
"There is a crack in everything. That's how the light gets in." - Leonard Cohen. |
#6
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Turn your pick on it's side as if you were using a knife to cut the strings then dig in. That's the way I get artificial harmonics.
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#7
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Thanks a lot for the tips, guys. I'll keep looking for those nodes!
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