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  #16  
Old 06-22-2017, 08:08 AM
redir redir is offline
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Yeah no doubt. Just let your supplier know. They most likely would replace it. IT looks like a blown out chip from when cutting the outline with a bandsaw. FWIW this is why I always cut proud of the line and with the top upside down just in case I get chipped out wood, then it will be hidden on the inside under the linings.
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  #17  
Old 06-22-2017, 08:21 AM
PiousDevil PiousDevil is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redir View Post
Yeah no doubt. Just let your supplier know. They most likely would replace it. IT looks like a blown out chip from when cutting the outline with a bandsaw. FWIW this is why I always cut proud of the line and with the top upside down just in case I get chipped out wood, then it will be hidden on the inside under the linings.
Good advice for future builds from scratch.
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  #18  
Old 06-22-2017, 12:48 PM
Quickstep192 Quickstep192 is offline
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Is the piece that chipped out possible in the shipping package?

If so, you might be able to glue it back in in a way that wouldn't be noticed.
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  #19  
Old 06-22-2017, 01:25 PM
PiousDevil PiousDevil is offline
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Originally Posted by Quickstep192 View Post
Is the piece that chipped out possible in the shipping package?

If so, you might be able to glue it back in in a way that wouldn't be noticed.
Nah, looks like it chipped out when it was cut, as someone mentioned, looks like it's because the grain swirls out toward the edge there, as if around a knot or something
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  #20  
Old 06-22-2017, 04:38 PM
printer2 printer2 is offline
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How about a picture of the whole top and of the end grain, even if just the rosette? Hard to tell what grade it is by viewing one small area. I agree, the top has some more thinning to do. If the rest of the top is acceptable you might be able to plane/sand that area out.
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  #21  
Old 06-22-2017, 06:21 PM
PiousDevil PiousDevil is offline
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Originally Posted by printer2 View Post
How about a picture of the whole top and of the end grain, even if just the rosette? Hard to tell what grade it is by viewing one small area. I agree, the top has some more thinning to do. If the rest of the top is acceptable you might be able to plane/sand that area out.
Indeed.











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  #22  
Old 06-22-2017, 06:43 PM
Frank Ford Frank Ford is offline
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I still say, take this out of the court of public opinion and give the supplier a chance. Stuff slips by, and they deserve a chance to make it right. Sure, you can do all kinds of things to make it work, but the simple fact is that you were disappointed. Own that, and let them arrange to get you a replacement. . .
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  #23  
Old 06-22-2017, 07:07 PM
PiousDevil PiousDevil is offline
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Originally Posted by Frank Ford View Post
I still say, take this out of the court of public opinion and give the supplier a chance. Stuff slips by, and they deserve a chance to make it right. Sure, you can do all kinds of things to make it work, but the simple fact is that you were disappointed. Own that, and let them arrange to get you a replacement. . .
I emailed them and I am waiting for a response. I also haven't put their name out, nor have I disparaged them in any way. I'm simply trying to determine if I am being unreasonable in my expectations. I am, after all, no luthier, and expected this kit to be mostly just a process of assembly, though I am willing and hoping to learn as I go.
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  #24  
Old 06-22-2017, 07:09 PM
AcornHouse AcornHouse is offline
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Seeing the whole top, it looks like a flaw in the wood; the edge of a knot or branch. Contact the seller. (Although I bet there's enough overhang and kerfing/purfling routing, combined with final thicknessing that the bad wood will disappear. But, best to let the supplier deal with it.)
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  #25  
Old 06-23-2017, 06:11 AM
Ned Milburn Ned Milburn is offline
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Grading scales used by bulk suppliers can often be meaningless, except as a marketing tool.

I wouldn't include a top in AAA category with the wavy grain yours shows.

Regarding expectations, some squirrelly / wavy grain is not surprising in kit-build wood. But the chipping & compression wounds, no matter how small, is disconcerting and disappointing.

I would suggest following Frank's suggestion to speak about talking to the supplier and having it replaced. Sometimes, wood will be replaced without need to return the unsuitable wood, meaning you get one for practice. This is certainly not guaranteed, but a possibility.
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  #26  
Old 06-23-2017, 06:50 AM
KingCavalier KingCavalier is offline
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From what I can see it looks like a Martin Dreadnought size and shape.
The chip looks to be in the lower bout. The finished guitar should measure around 15 5/8 at the lower bout when complete. How wide is the top now?
Does the kit come with purfling. As suggested, you should have enough room to work with.

Also, it looks like Adi spruce. I see some nice silking and the top looks fine to me.
It's not uncommon to have some wavy grain in the outer portion of a wide top.
Whats more important to me stiffness and tap tone, I like to pick my tops with my eyes closed.
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  #27  
Old 06-23-2017, 07:02 AM
printer2 printer2 is offline
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I think of 3A as the best of the best. And then there are people that sell 5A wood, the grading of wood is a funny business. While the most grading scales used only takes into account the visual aspect of a top I would not consider that a 3A top.
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  #28  
Old 06-23-2017, 07:11 AM
Mr Fingers Mr Fingers is offline
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I don't see why you would or should do anything other than report the problem immediately to the supplier and ask for a replacement. It really doesn't make any difference if it's probably outside the likely finished area of the top, or if you can sand it down, etc. As a kit builder, you should not expect to have to finesse things that way even if it's theoretically possible. I've rec'd flawed tops before -- I help kids build from kits sometimes -- and I just take a pic, report the problem, and ask for a new, proper piece, and this always gets delivered, no problem. Since I don't like to have to repack and ship something because of someone else's error, I have been allowed to discard the original piece. Another time, I was able to just repack it in the box the replacement came in and return with no shipping charge. The suppliers I worked with want to deliver a decent product, and everyone's scared of bad reviews on the web, so service is good. But you waste some time waiting, and maybe do some steps out of order while waiting.... Looks like the supplier could do some sharpening -- those cuts look shaggy. Good luck. It's frustrating, but given all the work of making an instrument, compromising or doing work-arounds is a bad, bad idea. And -- no way that's AAA. Not even close.
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  #29  
Old 06-23-2017, 08:14 AM
KingCavalier KingCavalier is offline
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Sorry but I have to respectfully disagree. There's little chance t you can grade a top by looking at the picture. If you live anywhere near PA or have the opportunity go to the Martin Guitar Makers Connection. Ask the kind ladies behind the counter to bring you out some tops, don't request a specific species. Now close your eyes, pick up each one and begin to tap and flex. Make two piles based on what you think your looking for.

Now open your eyes and get ready for the harsh reality. At least 1/4 of the tops you rejected for being as floppy as a piece of cheese and having the tap tone of cardboard will have the beautiful tight straight grain we're all so fond of.

I've done this a dozen times and I always have to laugh when I see the results.
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  #30  
Old 06-23-2017, 09:01 AM
charles Tauber charles Tauber is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KingCavalier View Post
There's little chance you can grade a top by looking at the picture.
Is this a AAA guitar top?




I'm pretty sure most would agree it isn't.

Your point is a good one that grading a top is not purely based on visual appearance. However, a "master grade/AAA/AAAAA " top should have the visuals as well as the other stuff, else it isn't "master/AAA/AAAAA", by definition.

Can one make a top-notch guitar from less than cosmetically "perfect" wood? Of course.
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