#1
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Help Needed on Disaster with Finish and Bridge
Hey everyone,
I’m looking for your guy’s expertise on a disaster situation that I am currently dealing with. Please hold any judgments. I already feel like a moron. I’ll be brief in the story, but I was creating an aluimum inlay on my bridge. I did research and found got a leafing pen and designed it. I then let it dry and painted a water based polyurethane finish to seal the paint. The polyurethane then faded some of the paint and left it smeared and unattractive. I then used a cleaning compound to rub away the finish and compound. When cleaning the bridge. It took of the paint, but it left a HORRIBLE residue and then some of it went onto the finish of the guitar and left a haze on it. I’m really not sure where to go from here. Should I take it to a luthier? Should I consider a bridge replacement? Also, what will remove this haze?! I tried to post pictures, I’m not sure exactly where to post photos. Thanks guys! |
#2
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Create an account on Imgur.com and then link the URLs here.
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#3
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Sorry for your disaster - most of us have "been there" before.
The answer really depends on the type of finish on the guitar. Please give specific info and post some pictures.
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Fazool "The wand chooses the wizard, Mr. Potter" 000-15 / GC7 / GA3-12 / SB2-C / SB2-Cp / AVC-11MHx / AC-240 |
#4
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Finish: non catalyzed gloss/vintage toner
Bridge: 2 1/8 black ebony Below is a link to pictures. Thanks for much for you help everyone https://imgur.com/a/zfxjQ |
#5
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non-catalyzed is a type of curing reaction, usually describing a lacquer. Is this a lacquer, then? If so you can blend in a lacquer fix but it takes some special skills.
The vintage toner is irrelevant. The bridge is super easy to fix: you can lightly scrape/sand the ebony down (that isn't finished) and get a beautiful finish on it with care and technique.
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Fazool "The wand chooses the wizard, Mr. Potter" 000-15 / GC7 / GA3-12 / SB2-C / SB2-Cp / AVC-11MHx / AC-240 |
#6
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Well, that’s great *wipes sweat from my forehead* Can you explain the “special skills” Thanks again for the response |
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Sure....
basically the ebony is not finished - it is raw wood. Some companies put dye in it to darken it but the wood doesn't have a sealing top coat on it. Fine woodworkers use something called cabinet scrapers to microplane the surface instead of sanding (do a quick youtube search to see it). I use a similar technique when working with fingerboards, using a single edge razor blade, cabinet scraping with the grain/ Super easy. The only thing is to mask/protect/avoid the guitar top and get a feel for scraping. You dont want to use sandpaper as that will round edges and give a softened geometry.
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Fazool "The wand chooses the wizard, Mr. Potter" 000-15 / GC7 / GA3-12 / SB2-C / SB2-Cp / AVC-11MHx / AC-240 |
#8
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Just to clarify. You’re referring to the bridge in the case of the cabinet scraping? I’m just a tad confused (if the scraping was in reference to the finish in the body) on how exactly to cure the haze. Thanks |
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The pictures are really helpful for the lacquer finish. Lacquer is very repairable by a pro since it will remelt and can be made invisibly repaired but you need a real finish pro with skill and equipment. its not hard but it just takes a special skill
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Fazool "The wand chooses the wizard, Mr. Potter" 000-15 / GC7 / GA3-12 / SB2-C / SB2-Cp / AVC-11MHx / AC-240 |
#10
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Good call on the razor blade and cabinet scraper. Got the white off the bridge. It’s a hair lighter than before, but that’s understood. Thanks for that information.
I assume a luthier can take care of the finish? |
#11
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Run some olde english lemon scented mineral oil on the bridge and it will look like new again
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Fazool "The wand chooses the wizard, Mr. Potter" 000-15 / GC7 / GA3-12 / SB2-C / SB2-Cp / AVC-11MHx / AC-240 |
#12
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Ran the oil and it looks perfect. Thanks again for all of your help! |