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  #1  
Old 09-12-2016, 05:15 AM
Silly Moustache Silly Moustache is online now
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Default Bridge lifting on Colllings

Just took my DS1ASB out of its case for a string change - and noticed a small gap under treble side behind top E and G bridge pinholes.

I can slip a piece of paper about 1/2" in.

Does this mean that the whole bridge has to be removed, cleaned and re-glued, or can it be just a careful squirt of glue in the lifting area?

Bit concerned about the sunburst finish there.

Any advice ?
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Old 09-12-2016, 05:17 AM
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Wolfram Wolfram is offline
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Definitely have it done properly - removed, cleaned and re-glued. No question.

Let me know if you need a recommendation for someone to do the work here in the UK.

Cheers,
David
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  #3  
Old 09-12-2016, 05:36 AM
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I would fix it immediately. Don't want it to continue and maybe have it take some top wood with it.
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Old 09-12-2016, 06:08 AM
Silly Moustache Silly Moustache is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolfram Slides View Post
Definitely have it done properly - removed, cleaned and re-glued. No question.

Let me know if you need a recommendation for someone to do the work here in the UK.

Cheers,
David
David - PM sent. TIA
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  #5  
Old 09-12-2016, 06:23 AM
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While there is always some risk of damage in most any repair, I've seen lots of bridges removed and reglued with little visible evidence. The most common thing I see is a slight depression where the repairman started the palette knife under the bridge. That is often barely noticeable and only if you're looking for it.
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Old 09-12-2016, 11:45 AM
Looburst Looburst is offline
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I have had two guitars, some years ago, that needed this repair. No problems at all and in both cases they completely removed the bridge, much like your issue, with no effects, only positive, I should say.
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  #7  
Old 09-12-2016, 07:29 PM
David Farmer David Farmer is offline
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Collings uses a glue that requires significantly more heat to release. They can be removed cleanly but the higher/ longer heat times often warp them pretty badly. If it was repaired at Collings they would rout off the old bridge.
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Old 09-13-2016, 02:22 AM
Silly Moustache Silly Moustache is online now
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Default Bridge lifting AND K&K fitted ?

Reading another thread about K & Ks - reminded my that the guitar with the lifting bridge also has K & K dual system - i.e. pads on the bridge plate - will they have to be removed ? Can they be easily removed and replaced ?
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  #9  
Old 09-13-2016, 06:23 AM
jonfields45 jonfields45 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silly Moustache View Post
Reading another thread about K & Ks - reminded my that the guitar with the lifting bridge also has K & K dual system - i.e. pads on the bridge plate - will they have to be removed ? Can they be easily removed and replaced ?
Two guitars I installed K&K Minis in were later sent to Martin for bridge repairs and neck resets. In both cases Martin removed and reinstalled the K&K Minis. The receipts showed the neck resets and bridge re-glues as warranty work, but there were substantial charges for refretting and other work. It appears the K&K work did not rise to warrant a specific charge but was on the itemized list.
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  #10  
Old 09-15-2016, 08:43 AM
guitarguitar guitarguitar is offline
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Collings guitars uses Titbond Imperial on bridges after 1998 which is heat resisiant so use caution.

KEY PRODUCT FEATURES
• Most heat-resistant aliphatic resin

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  #11  
Old 09-15-2016, 12:14 PM
Silly Moustache Silly Moustache is online now
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Weeeell, I took it to the local luthierchap today. He seemed perfectly happy to do the job - even with the K&K and with my choice of Titebond rather than something else he mentioned.

Collings tell me that in 2003 - they used Titebond 1000 - not sure which he'll use, but he seemed confident - even with the K&K fitted.

I'll be waiting on tenterhooks until ....some time ...next week!
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  #12  
Old 09-16-2016, 06:40 AM
Hot Vibrato Hot Vibrato is offline
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I don't think it's possible to do the job without removing the K&K pickups, because they are usually attached directly to the bridge plate, so they would get crushed by the interior caul in the gluing process. I believe they can be removed with a palette knife, but I wouldn't do it without a disclaimer.
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Old 09-17-2016, 05:00 AM
murrmac123 murrmac123 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hot Vibrato View Post
I don't think it's possible to do the job without removing the K&K pickups, because they are usually attached directly to the bridge plate, so they would get crushed by the interior caul in the gluing process.
I venture to disagree, Chris. Making up a caul which will make more than adequate contact with the bridgeplate while avoiding fouling the transducers is simplicity itself.
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  #14  
Old 09-17-2016, 06:04 AM
Silly Moustache Silly Moustache is online now
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He mentioned that he had many and various "cauls" with which he could do the job.

I've heard the term "caul" frequently, but was uncertain as to its exact meaning.
I looked it up :

1. the amniotic membrane enclosing a foetus. Part of the caul occasionally found on a child's head at birth, thought to bring good luck.
2. historical: a woman's close-fitting indoor headdress or hairnet.
3. Anatomy: the omentum.

I'm thinking - will this job take longer than expected if he can't find a hairnet, or even worse, a newborn baby ??

Told you I was a worrier !
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  #15  
Old 09-17-2016, 12:49 PM
Bill Yellow Bill Yellow is offline
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Dictionary.com listed those as caul(1), and I would have been as concerned as you had my eye not strayed down the page to caul(2)...
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