Bridge plate question

[mirwa]

The taper travels through the bridge and into the top

So it lends itself to being done after fitment of the bridge.

Make sure your saddle is in the right spot if bridge is pre-slotted, it would be best to fit a bridge without a saddle slot and do this after it has been glued and fitted.

Steve

[Fatstrat]

Originally Posted by mirwa

The taper travels through the bridge and into the top

So it lends itself to being done after fitment of the bridge.

Make sure your saddle is in the right spot if bridge is pre-slotted, it would be best to fit a bridge without a saddle slot and do this after it has been glued and fitted.

Steve

The bridge I have is pre-slotted. I'm replacing a 6" bridge w/a 6" bridge of similar shape. So "theoretically" the holes should be in right place if I carefully align the front and sides of new bridge to the exact same position of the previous bridge........Right?

[printer2]

Originally Posted by Fatstrat

The bridge I have is pre-slotted. I'm replacing a 6" bridge w/a 6" bridge of similar shape. So "theoretically" the holes should be in right place if I carefully align the front and sides of new bridge to the exact same position of the previous bridge........Right?

Not necessarily.

[Fatstrat]

Originally Posted by printer2

Not necessarily.

Would anyone care to elaborate?

[phavriluk]

Compare the two bridges for slot location when the bridge pin holes are aligned. The new bridge's saddle may not be located the exact same distance from the nut as the original, which is a good idea.

[printer2]

Originally Posted by Fatstrat

Would anyone care to elaborate?

There is nothing written in stone that the location of the saddle or pin holes be located the same distance from the outside edges of the bridge even if the bridges are the same size. Always check.

[Fatstrat]

I think we've gotten far enough past the original post that some are missing what the project is. I am adding a pinned bridge to a guitar that originally had a unpinned bridge. Thus had no pin holes. So I will be adding new pin holes.
But I do get it that the saddle needs to be in same position as on previous bridge. A consideration I had not thought of. I'll be sure to check.
Thanks for the advise so far. If anyone has any further insights to help me have a successful project, I appreciate hearing them.

[John Arnold]

it would be best to fit a bridge without a saddle slot and do this after it has been glued and fitted.

I will never understand this logic. When I glue a bridge, all the finish is removed under it. The bridge must be in that exact spot or it will show. And if the bridge is not perfectly square, that will show, too. That means precisely locating the bridge, which I do with two removable brads through the bottom of the saddle slot. This will automatically locate the saddle properly, assuming the measurement was correct.

[murrmac123]

Originally Posted by Fatstrat

. If anyone has any further insights to help me have a successful project, I appreciate hearing them.

I would invest in the Stewmac Saddlematic tool. For a mere $35.00 it will save you a lot of hassle, and make accurate saddle location a cinch. And if you are really hard up and can't afford $35.00 then you will just about get your money back by selling it on Ebay once you are finished with it.

[murrmac123]

Originally Posted by John Arnold

I will never understand this logic. When I glue a bridge, all the finish is removed under it. The bridge must be in that exact spot or it will show. And if the bridge is not perfectly square, that will show, too. That means precisely locating the bridge, which I do with two removable brads through the bottom of the saddle slot. This will automatically locate the saddle properly, assuming the measurement was correct.

I have to say I am taken aback slightly by by your very unexpected viewpoint, John. At a guess I would say that 90-95% of builders would prefer to cut the saddle slot after the bridge is glued.

2 salient reasons being ... accuracy absolutely guaranteed with the right tools, and a flat bottom to the saddle slot guaranteed as well.

EDIT: just out of interest, I have put up a poll on the Custom forum to discover what builders' preferences actually are ... I may well be in for a shock...

[redir]

I've never glued on a bridge first either. First off I don't have the proper tools to do it and second I don't think it's necessary for me to invest in them. It's a very accurate clever way of doing things for sure but I never have a problem with intonation when I build a bridge, measure for it's saddle location, rout out the saddle slot, and glue it on. Frankly I'd be a bit scared taking a router that close to the top of the guitar

In the case of a preslotted bridge though that could certainly be a problem unless it's a direct replacement or replica.