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#1
03-07-2014, 12:33 AM
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Epiphone 335 high saddle question
After buying this guitar a few weeks ago, I noticed the setup was bad. The neck is good, but the intonation was off. I replaced the strings and got all the strings intonated easily, except for the G. I backed up the saddle all the way. Better, but still off. Strangely, the more I played, the more pronounced the problem became.
I flipped the saddle, but backing it up all the way still did no good. Upon further inspection, I saw that the G saddle was higher than it should be. See pic. I hadn't realized the g string was high, but looking closely at it, I can see that it is quite noticeable. My options now include taking it back to GC, but I was disappointed with the initial setup, and it's a long drive. I could also take it to another tech -- he's slow, but does decent work. I could also try to file down the groove myself. Any suggestions? Thanks. 
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#2
03-07-2014, 12:58 AM
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Set your truss rod first, then Measure all six strings over the 17th fret and determine if the g string really is too high. It should be lower than the D, but higher than the B. If it's high file the slot yourself until it is right over the 17th.
That's the way I do it. The G saddle is often the one that is too high. You could use a nut file or a needle file. Just make sure there are no sharp edges when you're done. Clean it up with some sandpaper folded in half.
__________________
Bryan 
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#3
03-07-2014, 07:20 AM
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The most of those saddles look out of too high, not what a Tuneomatic bridge should look like. I'd return it.
Wouldn't be surprised to see a few more guitars looking like that, as there could have been a sloppy production run on those bridges.
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#4
03-07-2014, 08:21 AM
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Not sure if this helps but I just looked at both of my Gibson Les Pauls and the G string saddle was not as high, in comparison to the D and B strings, as your guitar. My G saddle was nearly the same height as the D and only a little higher than the B.
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#5
03-07-2014, 10:56 AM
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That G bridge saddle simply doesn't look correct. The radius of the bridge should pretty much match the radius of the neck. Of course, there will often be a bit of variation, but your G saddle looks too high. It's making the G "peak" instead of placing it into the radius curve.
You have a couple of options: 1) Take the guitar back and see if they have a lower saddle and can switch the saddles (our stores/shop carried extra saddles of different heights for just such an event). 2) If the grooves in the saddles are pre-formed instead of fitted, try switching the D and G saddles around. That ought to more closely make the radius. 3) Regrind the top of the saddle (this is the least favorable option as it will no doubt complicate matters with GC should you incorrectly cut the saddle. Plus, it will remove the chrome plating on the top of the saddle). Cutting a deeper groove invites the chance of creating a buzz or deadening the tone of the G string. If you cut the slot deeper, you'd ideally need to remove some of the saddle crown. It could be fairly easily done with a Dremel, but you'd have to be good with the Dremel so as to leave no sharp edges to cut the string. Sorry you're having trouble! I hope you can get it worked out to your satisfaction. Bill.
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#7
03-09-2014, 09:09 AM
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#8
03-09-2014, 10:21 AM
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There's a good chance the assembler at the plant might have accidentally switched the D and G around during a rush. One Christmas our shop had several Epi's that came in with the wires in the pots and switches, but the assembler had forgotten to solder them. The guitars worked, but were intermittent if you shook them.
Glad all is well!
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#9
03-09-2014, 10:41 AM
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It's definitely a keeper. I love its tones.
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#10
03-09-2014, 12:06 PM
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