Restringing the Resonator

[Ray B]

I have a steel-body, Regal resonator (biscuit-type). I re-strung it in the same manner which I originally acquired it, i.e. strings over the saddle and under the metal tailpiece (with the string "beads" protruding out the top of the tailpiece).

Someone recently saw it and commented that he thought the strings should go over the tailpiece with the beads out of sight.

Which is correct? (OR, is there a "correct" way?)

Thanks,

Ray

[Dan Carey]

Depends on the tailpiece design.
I've had both styles. How bout a picture?

My Regal Duolian (biscuit style) is strings over, ball ends under.

[MRBABAR]

I have a Paul Beard Gold Tone and my strings go over the top of the tail piece and the string ends go down into the holes - out of sight. Putting them underneath doesn't sound right to me.... good luck!

[jpbat]

On the usual resonator tailpiece, strings are over, ends under.

Some put the strings under, and consequently the balls over, in an attempt to put more pressure on the cone. Supposedly the angle is sharper when doing that way. I never understood why, because the metal tailpiece is flexible. This could only be true if the tailpiece was somehow fixed to prevent it to follow the tension of the strings. I did this mod on one of my reso to see what could happen. Didn't change anything to my ears. YMMV.

[devellis]

National warns owners that the strings-under method will void the warranty and can destroy the instrument.

Another tidbit I recently learned is that markedly uneven tension can collapse the cone on biscuit resonators, squashing one side down. So, for example, if all the strings are off, putting the top three strings on and tuning them up is a no-no. Put the strings on at reduced tension until all six are on and then work them up gradually, going from string to string increasing tension a bit at a time. The idea is to keep the tension well balanced across the bridge, rather than having it disproportionately pressing on one side only. The cones are only .008" and even with the spiral and other embossed strengthening patterns, it's pretty delicate if not treated carefully. This may all be old news to many but I just encountered it recently and it seems like it's worth spreading the word.

[Ray B]

This is the current string placement on the res.



Ray

[jpbat]

Yes, this is considered the "wrong" way.
You can wait the next strings change to put them the "correct" way.
No harm done.

[Ray B]

Originally Posted by jpbat

Yes, this is considered the "wrong" way.
You can wait the next strings change to put them the "correct" way.
No harm done.

Thank you. I'll take care of it next string change.

BTW, really like your YouTube video ("Drop G Swing Studies"). Nice playing.

Ray

[Brian W.]

Originally Posted by Ray B

Thank you. I'll take care of it next string change.

BTW, really like your YouTube video ("Drop G Swing Studies"). Nice playing.

Ray

Ray,

Take a look at the break angle difference on my reso (pictures are at the end of the thread url below). Stringing backwards was a quick fix to improve the break angle...

http://www.acousticguitarforum.com/f...d.php?t=157405

[Dulope]

Yes!!! Always change the strings one at a time on a reso - You don't want the biscuit shifting or the cone collapsing ... though some players like that nasty beaten tone

[Ray B]

Originally Posted by Brian W.

Ray,

Take a look at the break angle difference on my reso (pictures are at the end of the thread url below). Stringing backwards was a quick fix to improve the break angle...

I did not consider the break angle. Here is a photo of the current break angle (strung "backwards"?) on my resonator.



Strung the "correct" way there may be nearly no break angle. Now what??
Or am I not seeing things in the correct manner?

Ray

[Brian W.]

Originally Posted by Ray B

I did not consider the break angle. Here is a photo of the current break angle (strung "backwards"?) on my resonator.



Strung the "correct" way there may be nearly no break angle. Now what??
Or am I not seeing things in the correct manner?

Ray

Your break angle in the picture looks pretty good actually. I had to string my reso backwards because there was almost no break angle at all. The strings would move and shift on the saddle because there was not enough downward force to keep them in place.

Try it the correct way next time you change strings and see what it’s like. If you find the strings won't stay put, then go back to the other way . . . it should be fine...

[Taylorplayer]

If it were up to me, I'd restring the guitar now -- going over the top of the tailpiece. For the price of a set of strings you can get full piece of mind about that situation. Seems like a good deal to me.

Hope this is helpful to you>

Taylorplayer

[Allman_Fan]

So are you doing this to change the sound (louder) or to ensure the stings won't move (or both)?

[Ray B]

Originally Posted by Allman_Fan

So are you doing this to change the sound (louder) or to ensure the stings won't move (or both)?

Actually, neither one. I was looking into it because when I really don't know something (which I didn't in this case ... again) I like to learn and correct my mistakes, if I can.

I hadn't considered any damage to the instrument (but now I see that's a possibility) and I hadn't considered the break angle of the strings (that was something that I learned about during this thread that I would not have considered on my own).

As it says in the signature, "Trying to learn something new everyday." (Something I said almost daily to my children when they were young -- much to their chagrin.) I find that when I check out this forum I NEVER have a wasted day!

I'll probably change the strings either tonight or tomorrow ... 'twas getting close to that time anyways.

Thanks to all of you,

Ray