#16
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Quote:
Finally got the nerve up to bend the sides, no issues at all. The sides have this wonderful green tone to them once sanded,(you can't tell by this picture) I really hope it stays that way thru the finish.
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I'm not a luthier...luthier's know what they are doing. |
#17
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Nice!
I suppose that's a bridge every serious building will have to cross one day, bending expensive wood. I'm not looking forward to it.
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-- Nick |
#18
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Back is braced and kerfing is on.
I used Charles's tip about the tape along the braces, it worked great, thanks Charles.
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I'm not a luthier...luthier's know what they are doing. |
#19
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Moving right along Stu, looking really good.
Scott |
#20
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Looks good man. What's the thought behind the holes in the back bracing? Weight reduction?
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-- Nick |
#21
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I wanted more surface for glue, and my brace stock was too thin. I ripped the adi stock in half, and then laminated 1/8th white oak in between which gave me a full half inch.. A laminated anything is stronger than the original stock. Airplane wing spars are built the same way. To reduce weight they drill a bunch of holes in it. I saw a build in the custom section, "The mango tree" that Jeffery Yong is building, in the post it shows the laminated back braces that got me started down this road. I did some research and there are others out there building this way. I'm probably over thinking this build, over building it, (or a combination of both) I'm sure there is someone out there to shoot holes in my "holes". I guess I'll see in ten years or more. Stu
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I'm not a luthier...luthier's know what they are doing. |
#22
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Stew: Just a comment on your back braces. When you double the width of your braces, you double the strength, and also double the weight. When you double the height of your braces, you make them 8 times as strong and double the weight. So if you want to make strong light braces you build up rather then in width. Info for the future. Looking nice.
Tom
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A person who has never made a mistake has never made anything |
#23
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Quote:
Stu
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I'm not a luthier...luthier's know what they are doing. |
#24
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I'm going with the WRC top. Has a great ring to it, nice silking, and it's very light. (Which is what this guitar needs)
Rosette is just sitting on the top, a lot more to do with it. One thing about this WRC I think I need to buy cotton gloves or seal it. Seems to show finger prints instantly. Neck is glued up. 5 piece laminate with mahogany, black limba, African mahogany, limba, and mahogany. Not the most common combination, but it should work.
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I'm not a luthier...luthier's know what they are doing. |
#25
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Yes, you have to be extra careful with WRC. Make sure there is absolutey no debris where you set it down, it dents very easily. Sealing helps, but doesn't replace diligence.
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Chris _____ Guild '56 A-50, '57 CE-100, '60 X-150, '62 F-20, '64 Mark II, '65 SF IV, '75 F-112, '75 Mark IVP, '90 Pilot, '93 X-500, '97 Bluesbird Acorn House Guitars Parlor #1, Butternut Deuce, Rounder, Kulakeiki G&L '93 Legacy Lute '03 Lyn Elder |
#26
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Box is closed. On to the binding. Thanks for looking.
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I'm not a luthier...luthier's know what they are doing. |
#27
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Stuw: Niffty little clamp on the bench.............!!!
Tom
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A person who has never made a mistake has never made anything |
#28
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Garage sale find. The lady that sold it to me said it was used for making stain glass windows, it's purpose was to hold the lead.
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I'm not a luthier...luthier's know what they are doing. |
#29
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No top bracing pictures?
Box looks good. How does it sound tapping it?
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-- Nick |
#30
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Stuw, your build is looking really nice. Where'd you get the Cedar? It's a super looking top.
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