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  #1  
Old 01-05-2017, 02:38 AM
Richie H Richie H is offline
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Default Different nut width & string spacing then specified on drawing: Consequences?

Hi guys 'n gals!

This saturday I'm starting my second build: a 12-fret Grand Concert. Partly guided by a master builder (of classical guitars) like with the first one. I haven't consulted with him yet, I wanted to be prepared as his knowledge of steelstrings is somewhat limited. A great builder nonetheless.

The drawing specifies a nut width of 44,4 mm (1 3/4") and a saddle spacing of 54,6 mm. (Taylor GC specs)

I want to widen the nut width to 45 mm, maybe even 46, but the main thing is the width at the saddle. As this will be a pure fingerstyle guitar I want this as wide as possible. I have an Eastman with the same specs as above, but I still find it cramped sometimes higher up the FB. So, I was thinking about a saddle spacing of 58,7 mm (2 5/16").

Now the actual question: The above will undoubtably have an effect on bridge width, is there something to take into account? Other things I have to think about?

Thanks!

BTW, for you spec lovers:

Top: Sinker Redwood
B/S: Honeytree
FB/Bridge: Ebony
Bindings: Flamed Maple
Neck: Mahogany/something laminate

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  #2  
Old 01-05-2017, 07:10 AM
charles Tauber charles Tauber is offline
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Most bridge designs will accommodate having the bridge pin holes spaced 2 mm further apart, outside hole to outside hole.

The changes to the string spacing at nut and saddle/bridge will alter the neck and fingerboard width. Guitars that I make that are aimed at fingerstyle - or any more complex music - have a little more clearance from the high E string to the edge of the fingerboard as well as having a little more clearance at the 12th fret on the same string.

Otherwise, no changes as a result of wider string spacing.

Last edited by charles Tauber; 01-05-2017 at 07:16 AM.
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Old 01-05-2017, 09:47 AM
tahoeguitar tahoeguitar is offline
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+1 for what Charles said. Your saddle will have to be commensurately longer but not your bridge. I build 2-5/16" saddle spacing all the time using a standard bridge, and it's not strikingly visible unless you're looking for it. And of course your FB must be wide enough to allow at least 1/8" between outside edge of strings and edge of FB, more like 5/32" at the 14th fret. IMHO, YMMV etc...
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Old 01-05-2017, 10:02 AM
Richie H Richie H is offline
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Right.. Thx guys! I was clearly overthinking it. I thought this maybe would have an effect on width and placement of the bridge, as the Taylor style bridge (which I'm not going to use) is just hugging the x-brace and I can imagine that it's important not to overdo this or something. Not too much overhang over the x-brace I mean. I'll make the same bridge as I did on my first guitar. I like this design and it's as close as somewhat of a signature for me..
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Old 01-05-2017, 08:22 PM
BradHall BradHall is offline
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I built my second, an OM, and followed the plan specs exactly as called out. When I strung it up, the edge spacing was the wrong taper. Fortunately it was wide at the 12 th. fret and is still playable. I now draw the entire neck from nut to saddle to verify the geometry before I cut or drill anything. Peace of mind well worth the effort.
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Old 01-05-2017, 09:43 PM
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Bruce Sexauer Bruce Sexauer is offline
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With a 1 13/16 nut and a 2 5/16 BP spacing (a bit narrow for the nut IMO) the end of the fingerboard should be no less that 2 7/16. All opinion, but its mine.
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Last edited by Bruce Sexauer; 01-05-2017 at 09:49 PM.
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Old 01-05-2017, 11:21 PM
Truckjohn Truckjohn is offline
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Get a piece of wrapping paper out of the closet and draw it out on the white back side...

Draw the whole string deal from bridge to saddle and you will see clearly what you need to to... Don't forget to include your body joint location and your sound hole.

Then - as Bruce says - add another 1/8" for the offset on both sides and there you go. Now - you can lay out your neck and fretboard as well as your saddle slot and bridge pin spacing. You will have a much lower risk of ending up with a string spacing 1/4" wider at the saddle than you planned....
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Old 01-05-2017, 11:25 PM
Richie H Richie H is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BradHall View Post
I built my second, an OM, and followed the plan specs exactly as called out. When I strung it up, the edge spacing was the wrong taper. Fortunately it was wide at the 12 th. fret and is still playable. I now draw the entire neck from nut to saddle to verify the geometry before I cut or drill anything. Peace of mind well worth the effort.
That was the plan anyway. I suck at math and geometry. I could calculate it, but that probably would crack my brain.. I'm more of a visual kind of guy. Thx

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce Sexauer View Post
With a 1 13/16 nut and a 2 5/16 BP spacing (a bit narrow for the nut IMO) the end of the fingerboard should be no less that 2 7/16. All opinion, but its mine.
Thx Bruce. This would be stretching it, I think. I'm used to the Taylor specs, be it that I sometimes struggle higher up. This one will be shorter scale: 631mm. But I'll draw that one too, maybe visualising it makes it more understandable..
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Eastman AC412 (OM)
Hohner Essential Pro EP1-SP (parlor)
Yamaha G230 (classical)
Fender Gemini II (dread)
Yamaki YW-20 (dread)
OM Curly Redwood/Ziricote (Buildthread, Dutch)


GAS in denial: I won't spend my hard-earned money on something I don't need!
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  #9  
Old 01-05-2017, 11:30 PM
Richie H Richie H is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Truckjohn View Post
Get a piece of wrapping paper out of the closet and draw it out on the white back side...

Draw the whole string deal from bridge to saddle and you will see clearly what you need to to... Don't forget to include your body joint location and your sound hole.

Then - as Bruce says - add another 1/8" for the offset on both sides and there you go. Now - you can lay out your neck and fretboard as well as your saddle slot and bridge pin spacing. You will have a much lower risk of ending up with a string spacing 1/4" wider at the saddle than you planned....
This is also helpful. I've got a lot to draw! Why do I have to change plans.. thanks Truckjohn
__________________
Eastman AC412 (OM)
Hohner Essential Pro EP1-SP (parlor)
Yamaha G230 (classical)
Fender Gemini II (dread)
Yamaki YW-20 (dread)
OM Curly Redwood/Ziricote (Buildthread, Dutch)


GAS in denial: I won't spend my hard-earned money on something I don't need!
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  #10  
Old 01-06-2017, 09:28 AM
charles Tauber charles Tauber is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richie H View Post
This is also helpful. I've got a lot to draw! Why do I have to change plans.. thanks Truckjohn
I make a lot of my templates on a 1/32" card/bristol board stock, available at most art supply stores for a few dollars a large sheet. The stock is white, easy to draw on, cuts well with a sharp knife, can have its edges sanded and lasts for decades. I use the templates made from the stock for all layout and design work: everything is drawn full-size so there are no surprises in making jigs or instruments. The thickness of the stock allows a pencil or pen to easily follow its contour to mark outlines and locations.
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  #11  
Old 01-09-2017, 12:51 AM
Richie H Richie H is offline
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That's a good tip, thank you Charles! I'll ask my wife to go hunting as I'm stuck at work all week.

I've decided to have the molds made, or at least some plywood mother molds (is this a correct term?) to copy myself onto MDF. I've got a friend with a CNC-moldmakingbusinessthingy. Always nice to know people..
__________________
Eastman AC412 (OM)
Hohner Essential Pro EP1-SP (parlor)
Yamaha G230 (classical)
Fender Gemini II (dread)
Yamaki YW-20 (dread)
OM Curly Redwood/Ziricote (Buildthread, Dutch)


GAS in denial: I won't spend my hard-earned money on something I don't need!
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