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  #1  
Old 12-31-2016, 02:32 PM
springer springer is offline
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Default Harmony H1203 rebuild ?

I have an early H1203 excellent rebuild candidate. Top looks in perfect shape no cracks. Neck needs reset and is coming loose. A crack in the upper bout near the neck. I want to change to X bracing, string thru pin bridge, and so on. Never done this sort of thing before and I'm taking my pointers from a company that specializes in Sovereign rebuilds. I have a few questions, such as... what is the best way to remove the back? I've seen one youtube where the guy used a thin Japanese luthier saw and carefully sawed between the back and purfling removing very little material. What about applying heat or does that risk ungluing nearby areas i.e. back braces?
The rebuild company mentioned above like to structure their X brace with 100 degree forward shift. I'm guessing that would mean the angle(s) on vertical axis adjascent to lower and upper bouts are 100 degrees, which would result in the angles facing the sides 80 degrees... would that be correct?
Not quite ready to start this project. Just gathering some info at this stage.
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  #2  
Old 12-31-2016, 06:41 PM
mirwa mirwa is offline
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Removing the back of the guitar can be extremely messy sometimes.

If it has binding, you can use a small router to remove that binding, then using a separation knife slice through the join and work that all the way around.

Sometimes you need heat, sometimes you need steam.

At points where you come upon the neck and tail blocks, you will need more patience

Majority of the time, cosmetic work is required when refitting the back on.

Steve
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Old 01-05-2017, 02:08 PM
springer springer is offline
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Last edited by springer; 01-05-2017 at 03:45 PM.
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  #4  
Old 01-05-2017, 03:31 PM
springer springer is offline
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Woops! Posted the above reply in the wrong thread. I meant to post this in the "scalloping after the fact" thread regarding my Yairi Alvarez.
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  #5  
Old 01-08-2017, 10:22 PM
M Hayden M Hayden is offline
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If the guitar isn't bound like a lot of Harmony instruments, a palette knife or three, some hot water or steam, and time and patience will get the back off. They use hide glue, and lots of it.....
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  #6  
Old 01-08-2017, 10:50 PM
Truckjohn Truckjohn is offline
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This sort of work will destroy the back bindings and most likely leave you needing a refinish.

This is a very involved job and honestly - it's probably easier to just go ahead and build your own guitar from scratch.

The ones we see people doing this on most are the ones with no back bindings. They are way easier to do. Then - you just very gently work a thin pallet knife (or razor blade) and alcohol into the glue joint - and crack crack crack - the hide glue comes loose.

Whatever you decide - post some pix.

Thanks
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Old 01-12-2017, 03:32 PM
downtime downtime is offline
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Just curious, who are you consulting on the x-bracing conversion?

I have a Sovereign H1203 that was x-braced by moonlight luthiers.
It had severe bellying and desperately needed a neck reset.

After the conversion the top is flat, action is perfect and the tone is vastly improved.
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  #8  
Old Today, 03:38 PM
harmonyrepairs harmonyrepairs is offline
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Default Acoustic guitar back removal

With the right tools and technique, it is no problem at all to remove the back off any acoustic guitar. Problems occur when the back receives an impact on the binding. In most cases, that leaves a weak spot, usually in the side wood. We use a specially set up router to machine away the OEM binding. And we use a sharp new bit on every guitar. When the bit hits a bad spot, a little bit of side wood blows out or chips in some cases. We have worked out techniques to avoid this, but it still happens on 10 percent of the guitars we work on.

A more significant problem is replacing the back. I contend this takes a special guitar body holding jig which supports and straightens the guitar in all directions while the liner blocks and end blocks are re-aligned and straightened. We use the Mega Mold from CNC products for both top and back re-attachment. This tool or jig is fantastic for re-gluing the back or top. I am in no way associated with CNC products. Just a satisfied customer.

A more interesting question is, "What is the best way to remove a neck without steam damage?" We think we have the solution. Any guesses?
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