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  #61  
Old 03-11-2017, 06:00 PM
murrmac123 murrmac123 is offline
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Originally Posted by Todd Yates View Post
I thought long and hard about the choice of neck and bridge configuration, and I realize my final choice is not currently the most popular choice. However, it is the setup of most of my vintage Martins and I play those guitars frequently. I think I play them best, but "best" is a relative term.

Oh, I did send Howard some measurements of favorite 1940's Martin necks as a guide in planning and shaping the neck of this one. The shape of the neck is going to be a C-shape, again, much like my 40's Martins.
I have had a few guitars through my hands recently with 1 11/16" nut widths, and I am now convinced that the neck profile is much more of a factor in how the guitar feels and plays, than the actual nut width is.
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  #62  
Old 03-11-2017, 06:50 PM
Jeff Scott Jeff Scott is offline
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...I'm seriously leaning toward 1 11/16" nut and 2 1/8" bridge...
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Originally Posted by Todd Yates View Post
...I chose 1 11/16" and 2 1/8", at least for the sake of discussion, because that was used nearly every 14 fret Martin from 1939 until the 1980's, and is still the default pairing for most 14 fret D's and 000's. It works for me, but I could be persuaded to do something different I guess.
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Originally Posted by Todd Yates View Post
...I thought long and hard about the choice of neck and bridge configuration, and I realize my final choice is not currently the most popular choice. However, it is the setup of most of my vintage Martins and I play those guitars frequently. I think I play them best, but "best" is a relative term.

Oh, I did send Howard some measurements of favorite 1940's Martin necks as a guide in planning and shaping the neck of this one. The shape of the neck is going to be a C-shape, again, much like my 40's Martins.
The best feeling Martin I have played has those same nut and string spacing specs. They are on a 2009 custom ordered Martin I have. Also, 25.4" scale length, on a 000/OM sized body.

Great looking guitar, so far, guys.
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  #63  
Old 03-11-2017, 09:00 PM
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CoolerKing CoolerKing is offline
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Here's my personal view vis a vis nut, neck, and bridge.

1) nut width most important for me
2) neck bulkiness etc
3) bridge spacing a distant third.

But to each his own. I have a variety of neck shapes but the vintage Martin and the modern contemporary finger style are best for me (while being radically different from one another!)
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  #64  
Old 03-11-2017, 11:55 PM
Howard Klepper Howard Klepper is offline
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Originally Posted by murrmac123 View Post
love the fretboard inlay ...classic ... personally, I hate "bare" fretboards ...



just out of curiosity, Howard, did you turn the handle of that awl yourself?
Good catch, Murray. I made that awl from a trammel point and a chunk of cocobolo, and made three others like it as Christmas gifts. Thanks for noticing!
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  #65  
Old 03-12-2017, 01:01 AM
jessupe jessupe is offline
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Do try to keep up, Jessupe ... you're not on Maestronet now ...
ya slackers like me rely on folks like yourself , thanks
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  #66  
Old 03-12-2017, 08:09 PM
Guest 1928
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Back braces are shaped now.




Rough carved neck, with frets and side dots installed. Just one dot at the 12th.




Neck dart taking shape.


Last edited by Guest 1928; 04-12-2017 at 06:10 AM.
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  #67  
Old 03-12-2017, 08:25 PM
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CoolerKing CoolerKing is offline
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Looking good!
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  #68  
Old 03-14-2017, 04:21 PM
Guest 1928
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Here's the dart coming together. There's quite a bit of work in that one small area.






Last edited by Guest 1928; 04-12-2017 at 06:10 AM.
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  #69  
Old 03-14-2017, 06:05 PM
murrmac123 murrmac123 is offline
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Beautifully carved dart ... very elegant indeed.

Quote:
Murray, even if you don't like the nut width, at least you'd like the 80x43 EVO frets.
Yes, I certainly would Todd ... I don't necessarily dislike the nut width, I am not a flatpicker (and I know you are) but I would hazard a guess that a 1 11/16" nut (with appropriate saddle string spacing) will facilitate crosspicking much more than a wider nut would.
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  #70  
Old 03-16-2017, 06:49 AM
Guest 1928
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Howard builds without molds, which I find very interesting. Here are photos of the body coming together.

The sides are bent.



Neck and end blocks glued in place.


Last edited by Guest 1928; 04-12-2017 at 06:11 AM.
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  #71  
Old 03-16-2017, 07:16 AM
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David Wren David Wren is offline
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This is shaping up to be a sweet guitar, that's for sure! Love the little struts in front of and behind the bridge plate ... smart!
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  #72  
Old 03-17-2017, 08:26 PM
Guest 1928
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Thanks, David. I get more enthused all the time.

Here are some more progress pictures.

Sides are bent and glued to the blocks.



Tail block, which laminated for strength and beveled to prevent that familiar wrinkle along the edge of a wide block.




Neck block, laminated for strength, but on the rim side so that the traditional look is maintained.




Installing the end graft.






Last edited by Guest 1928; 04-12-2017 at 06:12 AM.
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  #73  
Old 03-19-2017, 04:58 AM
murrmac123 murrmac123 is offline
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It's all coming together beautifully, Todd.

Does that thin center (walnut?) strip in the tail block have a structural function, or is it simply a very attractive aesthetic enhancement ?
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  #74  
Old 03-19-2017, 12:56 PM
Guest 1928
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Murray, there is no structural advantage to the center strip on that lamination. I consider it decorative.
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  #75  
Old 03-19-2017, 02:12 PM
Howard Klepper Howard Klepper is offline
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Not structural. That strip is the secret to great tone! I can say no more.
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