#16
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I do not use "correct" to mean nothing else will work OK. I use it to mean the best practice. That is what I assume is your goal and that of the OP. Please don't take my comment as a personal criticism because it was contrary to what you had said. We all get contradicted here at one time or another, and disagreement about a building or repair practice is not personal criticism. But there is some irony in you now saying it is wrong to use the word "correct" when it entered the discussion in your own statement.
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"Still a man hears what he wants to hear, and disregards the rest." --Paul Simon |
#17
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Thanks for all the great input, as usual, gents.
A final question: Is there an optimal headstock thickness to use with the Waverlies? 15mm ok? 16? |
#18
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1. a deceptive, misleading, or false notion, belief, etc.: I stand by my usage of the word fallacy in reference to what you stated, Howard. Quote:
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Your statement "There is no one hole that is correct" is IMHO a poorly phrased statement and is inaccurate and a fallacy (as stated above), no matter how much you rip apart my grammatical and semantic usage of the word "fallacy". Perhaps better would have been if you had stated, "An even better way of doing it is with a double diameter hole." That is all.
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---- Ned Milburn NSDCC Master Artisan Dartmouth, Nova Scotia |
#19
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it all depends on what the definition of "is" is
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-donh- *everything* is a tone control |
#20
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So: A single diameter hole is the wrong way. A counterbored hole is the right way. This is not just repair aesthetics. Doing it the wrong way can impair tuner function. Thanks again for pointing out the need for clarity. And personal best wishes.
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"Still a man hears what he wants to hear, and disregards the rest." --Paul Simon Last edited by Howard Klepper; 05-14-2015 at 11:46 AM. |
#21
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16 maximum. The posts are not as long as those of some other brands.
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"Still a man hears what he wants to hear, and disregards the rest." --Paul Simon |
#22
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I like to use 1930's Martin dimensions. Those headstocks measure 0.570" thick (14.5mm). That is 1/2" for the mahogany, and 0.070" for the rosewood overlay.
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#23
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Thanks a lot John. Much appreciated.
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#24
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I'm doing tests on scraps, and am a bit puzzled. With a 11/32 hole, the ferrule fits perfectly, but isn't tight at all. If you flip the piece upside down, it almost wants to fall out.
Using an 8mm bit, the hole is too small to even press the ferrule in. and my reamer is a hair too small to make the hole bigger. On the Stew Mac website, they mention 11/32 as the correct size, but how do you guys end up using a hammer or any kind of press? At that size, it slips in and out by itself for me... |
#25
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I generally use a 21/64" (0.328") bit and taper ream the counterbore, or use a letter drill. Size 'Q' is 0.332".
My reamer for the counterbore is a general purpose tee handle reamer (1/8" to 1/2" with six flutes) that is available at most any good hardware store. I sawed it off at 5/16" diameter, using a tungsten carbide hacksaw blade. I originally made the reamer for banjo fifth pegs, but it works fine for tuner bushings. I ream until the bushing drops in about 1/3 of the way, then press it the rest of the way in using a C-clamp. |
#26
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Thanks again John. Now to find a 21/64 bit in a store locally. Fingers crossed!
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