resawing and thicknessing small pieces for headstock overlay

[Howard Klepper]

The Wagner Safe-T-Planer is gone, but this appears to be identical:

http://woodworker.com/fullpres.asp?P...0&LARGEVIEW=ON

Double stick tape to a backer. Good double stick, not the Scotch tape kind. Watch your fingers.

[arie]

Originally Posted by Howard Klepper

The Wagner Safe-T-Planer is gone, but this appears to be identical:

http://woodworker.com/fullpres.asp?P...0&LARGEVIEW=ON

Double stick tape to a backer. Good double stick, not the Scotch tape kind. Watch your fingers.

cool. i see that they improved the mounting screws for the inserts. they went from fhcs's to shcs's. looks alright.

as stated good tape is a must. when getting it of the backer i use a de-pinned coping saw blade and cut through the tape. then roll the leftover sticky stuff off the veneer when separated. very easy to destroy the work if you try to pry it off. i've even done segmented rosettes down to .050 thick this way.

[Halcyon/Tinker]

You should be able to get one clean side for each veneer. Surface it smooth on the belt sander, take a slice, surface it, slice it etc. so on each piece you'd only have one side to clean up.

We make our purflings by hand most of the time. To get them to final thickness, we have blocks with sandpaper in the middle, and risers at the edge. We draw the block along the purfling until it hits the bench and stops making dust. They end up consistent to about 1/2 to one thou difference along the length.

You could make a larger version. Take a flat scrap block that is 6" x 4". Glue binding off cuts along the edges of the long side. (Or whatever you have to get the height in the right hood). Double stick some 100 or 80 grit between the rails. Double stick the clean side of the veneer down to a flat board, and run your new block over it until it stops making dust (sweep the dust out regularly). Bet you could clean up the surface in under two minutes, depending on how rough a cut your saw gives.

If you don't mind the wood loss, cut the veneers on your table saw with a zero insert. Raise the blade just past halfway, take a pass, flip the block, cut again. We do our bridge blanks like that, and the surface is usually only a few thou in discrepancy.

[redir]

Prior to having a drum sander I would have just used a block plane as was mentioned earlier by double stick taping to a backer. It's really not difficult and should be fast and easy. BUt the drum sander sure is a luxury