cut frets slots - Page 2

Rodger Knox · #16 02-10-2015, 11:59 AM

I had no idea you were cutting carbon fibre when I recommended that saw. It may cut all the slots before it dulls, but I doubt it will.
Cut the slots oversize with a hacksaw and epoxy the frets in place.
Fretwire is manufactured for wood, the barbs on the tangs will not work well with carbon fibre.

arie · #17 02-10-2015, 02:39 PM

fwiw;

once again why not wood?

the fretboard is what i'd consider a serviceable part of the guitar. sometimes you have to pull frets, dress frets etc, much harder in a cf fretboard i'd think. one might make a mess doing that or not.

why not just buy a pre-cut board and focus on the hard part which would be the cf body and neck?

with a wooden fret board now you have the option of fine tuning the neck angle and setting relief in your super stiff cf neck far easier.

Tygrys · #18 02-10-2015, 04:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by printer2

I was more concerned about the CF dust, especially cutting with power tools. Not good for the lungs.

You can easy remove dust by adding a bit of water but i agree i would not use power tools for CF when they are dry.

Tygrys · #19 02-10-2015, 04:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redir

I'm with printer on this one. The fret saw is designed to cut a slot slightly thinner then the fret tangs so that when you hammer or push them into a wooden fretboard the tangs compress and grab the wood and are held in place by friction much like a nail is. The CF will be too difficult to compress. But if you make the slots the same width and glue the frets in then the tang part of the frets will act similarly in a bed of resin as they would in wooden slots.

I am not warry about delamination but i do get your point. I may and up by cutting same width slots and use glue but then i will have to mix glue with carbon dust.

BTW how thich is fret wire the bit which is instole in the fret board.

Tygrys · #20 02-10-2015, 05:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rodger Knox

Cut the slots oversize with a hacksaw and epoxy the frets in place.
Fretwire is manuwillred for wood, the barbs on the tangs will not work well with carbon fibre.

By cutting oversize slots i will loose the accuracy of an intonation. But taking your opinion i will cut exacly sizes slots and use some glue.

Tygrys · #21 02-10-2015, 05:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by arie

fwiw;

once again why not wood?

the fretboard is what i'd consider a serviceable part of the guitar. sometimes you have to pull frets, dress frets etc, much harder in a cf fretboard i'd think. one might make a mess doing that or not.

why not just buy a pre-cut board and focus on the hard part which would be the cf body and neck?

with a wooden fret board now you have the option of fine tuning the neck angle and setting relief in your super stiff cf neck far easier.

Wooden fretboard will jot survive my needs. I often walking with backpack an ld many times get well wet and dry my self with the fire. Im gessing wood will crack extremely fast. Moreover i like use motorbike and wooden parts of the guitar would not survive too long ans if is raining every thing is wet Or in one momenr is hot on sun and next is freezing from wind on momotorbike. Therefore i want all guitar weather proof.

Jim.S · #22 02-10-2015, 05:34 PM

I guess one way you could get the water resistant qualities for a fret board is to use another composite other than CF and epoxy.

Martin make a fret board I think they call it "richlite" and I think that maybe a melamine resin but not sure what the other component is.

At a guess you could use either paper or cotton cloth as the reinforcing and either, melamine resin, resorcinol phenol formaldehyde (this stuff is good and dark brown) or even West system epoxy. This way you could cut the frets in as you would with wood and your saw would keep and edge for more than the first slot by avoiding the CF reinforcing.

Again I am not sure but you may be able to just buy a "richlite" blank and I think west systems epoxy would hold it to your CF neck no worries.

printer2 · #23 02-10-2015, 06:09 PM

Why not just make the fretboard out of CF and then glue it on the neck as we do with wood? If you ever have to replace the board just heat it up and the epoxy holding on the board will soften up. Also when I suggested using a hacksaw I did so since blades are cheap. There is no reason slots cut with a hacksaw will be any less precise than using a different saw. Mark the positions accurately and take care in doing your cuts.

http://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Trade_...fret_tang.html

Hack saw blades can come with 0.025" width.

Tygrys · #24 02-11-2015, 05:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by printer2

Why not just make the fretboard out of CF and then glue it on the neck as we do with wood? If you ever have to replace the board just heat it up and the epoxy holding on the board will soften up. Also when I suggested using a hacksaw I did so since blades are cheap. There is no reason slots cut with a hacksaw will be any less precise than using a different saw. Mark the positions accurately and take care in doing your cuts.

http://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Trade_...fret_tang.html

Hack saw blades can come with 0.025" width.

In one of post i have written that i will do seperate guitar body and neck from one mold and fretboard from other one. I also mentionet that in the fret board im planing onpy two layers of carbon and rest will be from scraps which i will find in my friend workshop I'm guessing it would be mostly glassfibre. Also i will use vacuum system with epoxy.

And i agree with you i will yse hacksaw and epoxy to glue frets in.

Tygrys · #25 02-11-2015, 05:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by printer2

Why not just make the fretboard out of CF and then glue it on the neck as we do with wood? If you ever have to replace the board just heat it up and the epoxy holding on the board will soften up. Also when I suggested using a hacksaw I did so since blades are cheap. There is no reason slots cut with a hacksaw will be any less precise than using a different saw. Mark the positions accurately and take care in doing your cuts.

http://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Trade_...fret_tang.html

Hack saw blades can come with 0.025" width.

I believe those blades http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...145907&alt=web will do 0.023" width

Frank Ford · #26 02-11-2015, 09:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tygrys

By cutting oversize slots i will loose the accuracy of an intonation. But taking your opinion i will cut exacly sizes slots and use some glue.

Well, sorry to sound so pessimistic, but I predict that by the time you actually get this first one made, there will be so many issues you'll want to correct that intonation and fret placement won't be any problem at all. It seems you have started (or plan to start) a seriously difficult first instrument project!

arie · #27 02-11-2015, 10:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tygrys

Wooden fretboard will jot survive my needs. I often walking with backpack an ld many times get well wet and dry my self with the fire. Im gessing wood will crack extremely fast. Moreover i like use motorbike and wooden parts of the guitar would not survive too long ans if is raining every thing is wet Or in one momenr is hot on sun and next is freezing from wind on momotorbike. Therefore i want all guitar weather proof.

zowie. sounds like you require a real combat grade instrument.

scuttlebutt has it that fret placement should note deviate no more then +/-.015 in to achieve human ear level intonation. personally for me i like no more then +/-.003 in -not that i can hear that good, but it's not that hard to get that level of precision anyway and to me it's just good craftmanship.

hope it works out for you

redir · #28 02-11-2015, 11:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tygrys

I am not warry about delamination but i do get your point. I may and up by cutting same width slots and use glue but then i will have to mix glue with carbon dust.

BTW how thich is fret wire the bit which is instole in the fret board.

They vary so you will have to measure. Most places you buy fret wire should have the specification but I would still wait and then measure. Then get a saw blade that is right on or a bit wider. You can always file the blade thinner but if it's just a bit wider then the slot then don't worry about the intonation.

It's impossible to intonate a guitar anyway

Tygrys · #29 02-11-2015, 01:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Frank Ford

Well, sorry to sound so pessimistic, but I predict that by the time you actually get this first one made, there will be so many issues you'll want to correct that intonation and fret placement won't be any problem at all. It seems you have started (or plan to start) a seriously difficult first instrument project!

I'm fully aware of that but one of my good friends who has achieved success told me that by trying best on first time there will be a bit less to correct later. We also made bet that new cheap up to a £100 guitar will sound better then my one. But we also agree that this will be a good starting point for corrections and development for next one (probobly same one just with reduced number of list to correct).

Regardless all I'm optimistic for this project.

I will do a some form of mold for precise fret cutting.

Tygrys · #30 02-11-2015, 01:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redir

They vary so you will have to measure. Most places you buy fret wire should have the specification but I would still wait and then measure. Then get a saw blade that is right on or a bit wider. You can always file the blade thinner but if it's just a bit wider then the slot then don't worry about the intonation.

It's impossible to intonate a guitar anyway

Firstly i will buy a fret wire and then buy blade to cut slots.