#16
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A number of years ago I refinished my late 70's Precision that had a lacquer finish. What I did was get a large aluminum foil pan and poured in a gallon of lacquer thinner and set the body in the pan for several minutes. Then I used a paint brush and dipped it in the lacquer thinner and bushed the body as if I was painting it. I continued this process and had the whole thing completed in an hour or so (if I remember correctly). I didn't use any abrasives at all--just a paint brush. Doing it this way may or may not have taken any longer to get the finish off but I really didn't have to do any follow up sanding either.
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#17
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Question... Would a heat gun pose fire hazard while trying to remove a nitro finish, or is it mostly inert because the solvent(s) have already long since gone...??
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---- Ned Milburn NSDCC Master Artisan Dartmouth, Nova Scotia |
#18
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Quote:
It is the prime component in smokeless powder explosive propellants.
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Fazool "The wand chooses the wizard, Mr. Potter" 000-15 / GC7 / GA3-12 / SB2-C / SB2-Cp / AVC-11MHx / AC-240 |
#19
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I use stripper and scraper, but around the bindings I use scraper and sandpaper only. It's not a hard process -- what's hard is being patient and careful. Most people rush, and that's when mistakes happen. I have not needed or used heat on nitro, and don't know why I would.
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#20
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Quote:
Heat guns used correctly work extremely well for softening nitro paint for easy scraping. Steve
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Cole Clark Fat Lady Gretsch Electromatic Martin CEO7 Maton Messiah Taylor 814CE |