Build for the stage? - Page 2

alohachris · #16 10-13-2015, 01:09 PM

Aloha Fred,

Yeah, finding that dimensional balance for a gigging guitar & player can be challenging because giggers often are required to play in many different styles. That requires more versatility from an acoustic guitar. In general, for more balanced results & less feedback, large guitar bodies should have less depth. And on smaller bodies, adding a tad more depth can provide more balance, presence & bass without feedback inducing boominess. Of course, that can vary.

IME, having used self-made, 00 & 000 sized Koa guitars Live for gigging for almost 40 years, I found that a slight increase in side depth, up from the traditional 4" depth, makes a nice difference, providing more presence & a bit more bass.

This is especially true for when the wound strings get older & basses muted. In that case, playing live or with other players, you cannot hear much bass on many 4" deep guitars, only the mid's & trebles. That's fine if you're a solo fingerstylist. But if you also sing & play with other instruments or voices, a tad more bass & presence is needed, IMO. Ya need to hear those key bass notes to be able to hear or signal chord changes.

So for a 00 or OM gigging guitar, I recommend adding a 1/4", 3/8, or 1/2" depth to the lower bout. Depending on many other factors, the result can be a cannon, with plenty of bass, more presence, less boominess & feedback tendency - and better overall balance.

Good luck with your project, Fred.

alohachris

printer2 · #17 10-13-2015, 05:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alohachris

Aloha Fred,

Yeah, finding that dimensional balance for a gigging guitar & player can be challenging because giggers often are required to play in many different styles. That requires more versatility from an acoustic guitar. In general, for more balanced results & less feedback, large guitar bodies should have less depth. And on smaller bodies, adding a tad more depth can provide more balance, presence & bass without feedback inducing boominess. Of course, that can vary.

IME, having used self-made, 00 & 000 sized Koa guitars Live for gigging for almost 40 years, I found that a slight increase in side depth, up from the traditional 4" depth, makes a nice difference, providing more presence & a bit more bass.

This is especially true for when the wound strings get older & basses muted. In that case, playing live or with other players, you cannot hear much bass on many 4" deep guitars, only the mid's & trebles. That's fine if you're a solo fingerstylist. But if you also sing & play with other instruments or voices, a tad more bass & presence is needed, IMO. Ya need to hear those key bass notes to be able to hear or signal chord changes.

So for a 00 or OM gigging guitar, I recommend adding a 1/4", 3/8, or 1/2" depth to the lower bout. Depending on many other factors, the result can be a cannon, with plenty of bass, more presence, less boominess & feedback tendency - and better overall balance.

Good luck with your project, Fred.

alohachris

Wondering if you could balance off the depth with bracing, scallop it for guitars with less volume and go straight braced on larger? Maybe I should make a practice guitar first.

printer2 · #18 10-13-2015, 07:23 PM

Was not happy about the Peruvian Walnut, it was just too boring. Bought a Walnut set for a uke recently that had fairly long backs. The backs were 19 1/2" x 6" and 3 1/8" sides. It looks like it can just fit. Good thing I bought some Walnut to resaw for sides a while ago.

printer2 · #19 06-01-2016, 06:58 PM

Where has the time went? Seems I have not done any acoustic guitar building over the winter but have toyed with guitar amps instead. Well this project is back to the forefront. Some changes as far as wood, Jatoba (or Brazilian Cherry if you like) for the back and sides as well as fretboard. Neck of Selangan Batu, maple binding. I suggested cream ABS binding but he was really hoping for wood. Oh well, if the thing looks like it had a few miles on it it probably has.

The top is one I picked out from a pile of tops I bought cheap two weeks ago. Went through a pile of factory rejects and came up with an interesting mix of wood. Sanded them down to 0.0120" and flexed and tapped them. This set was among the hardest and stiffest of the bunch and seemed quite musical. One plate had a split in it that killed its chance of going on a dread as was drawn on the other plate. No problem fitting an 00 on the reduced size. No idea what conditions the wood had been in lately so I am going to stick it in a box and keep it at about 45% RH.

printer2 · #20 06-03-2016, 11:26 AM

Was only planning to cook the water out of the top before humidifying, spur of the moment decision took it briefly up to torifying temperature. Did not want to change the cell structure but thought it might relax some of the stresses in the wood. One day I'll have to test the theory.

Rodger Knox · #21 06-08-2016, 04:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by printer2

Sanded them down to 0.0120" and flexed and tapped them. This set was among the hardest and stiffest of the bunch and seemed quite musical.

That's pretty thin, should be a really light top.
Seriously, it's looking good so far.

printer2 · #22 06-08-2016, 05:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rodger Knox

That's pretty thin, should be a really light top.
Seriously, it's looking good so far.

You have to use a backer board to get them that thin.

Waffling back and forth on this one. should I be making it out of the wood as shown or would it be better as a dryer sounding guitar? Should be an interesting summer and what I ultimately come up with. A sunburst was also suggested, he saw a body I did a while back and liked the look.

printer2 · #23 09-18-2016, 09:23 PM

Finally getting back to this one. Sanded and laminated a second sheet to the proposed top. Decided not to use it as it would only fit a 0 sized guitar and I want to do a 00 now.

Picked up a bunch of reject tops a while back. Some were rejected for not cutting it visually I guess, I kind of liked the way they look. Not a great picture, just finished putting the top on the sides. I was concerned about bending the Jatoba but it bent with no issues and no spring back. Wish I had more of it.

Just for kicks, I passed by a pallet leaning up against the wall at work years ago and noticed a few of the boards were quartered and had an interesting figure. Turned out to be Birch. Yanked the slats off and resawed them. I did my home brew torrification on it and the color really came out. Decided to use a baked cedar top with it (Yeah I know, take a easy to dent wood and make it even more fragile) and brace it up for extra light strings. Inspired by Mark Hatcher's idea to build a guitar for Silk and Steel. Was nervous about bending the baked Birch. Finally decided to order some SuperSoft.

printer2 · #24 11-08-2016, 02:27 PM

Backs on and everything sanded fairly smooth. Have a walnut that joined the fray also a small maple I am doing but forgot to take a picture of the maple. Flamed maple binding for the jatoba and the walnut. I thought the maple would have called out to itself for the birch, might do an ebonized white oak for it.

Jatoba

Walnut

Birch